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Thread: Series III (burned) rebuild

  1. #171
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    Hi guys. Took the Landy up near the Lower Helena Diversion Dam last Monday and after a half hour or so she conked out. Did the standard troubleshooting and found she had no spark, which I traced to the electronic ignition module I had fitted. The live wire leading to the module was worn through and shorting inside the dizzy. The earth wire is also worn through inside the dizzy. Fortunately we were able to repair the wire and the module was OK, so she started again and we got home OK, however I would really like to understand why the wires wore through their shields. Could it be the movement of the ignition advance? If so, what kind of design is it to have wires that sit there and wear out after a few hours running time?

    Also, today I tried to start it and no go - checked the spark and there isn't any. But the wire is not shorting out, so I suspect the ignition module itself has failed - maybe from the shorting last week.

    Any ideas?
    How did you wire up the electronic ignition module?? (Didn't come with any instructions) I purchased one and tried to install it, and it doesn't work. (Got it from Gary at CLR). So ended up putting the points back for the time being..

    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  2. #172
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    Feb 2009
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    Warrimoo, Blue Mountains, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfman_TWP View Post
    How did you wire up the electronic ignition module?? (Didn't come with any instructions) I purchased one and tried to install it, and it doesn't work. (Got it from Gary at CLR). So ended up putting the points back for the time being..

    Wolf
    Wire the black lead to the coil negative, and the red lead to the coil positive.

    Peter

  3. #173
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    Mar 2009
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    Collie W.A.
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    Hi again,

    We have to replace our gearbox, and I am wondering if it might be just as easy, or easier, to pull motor and gearbox out as one unit, replace the gearbox, and re-fit both as a single unit again. I really don't fancy removing the seat bases, undoing all those bell-housing bolts while the unit is in the car, and then wrestling the gearbox out by hand, then doing it all in reverse.

    Any advice gratefully anticipated!

    Regards,
    Lane.

    Edit: Looks like it's a bad idea: Series 2A Motor Removal
    It was an incredibly educational and worth while experience rebuilding my gearbox myself. I'm an Electrician, but following the old Series III manual and getting a bit of advice from here got me through. I'll not fear building a Series box again now. It would be a great oppurtunity for your boys too . I'm guessing you already have another box lined up? If you are going to rebuild your own box though, list down everything that is wrong with it now which will make it easier to identify the parts you'll need when you have it open.

    Mine crunched between 3rd and 4th which meant replacing the 3+4 synchro, probably the most expensive part of the box ($200). A standard rebuild kit including all bearings, seals and gaskets will cost you around $150.

  4. #174
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    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterg1001 View Post
    Wire the black lead to the coil negative, and the red lead to the coil positive.

    Peter
    Doh! Didn't want to risk connecting it that way at first. Put it in this morning, cranked her up, and worked fine..

    Many Thanks,
    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  5. #175
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    Perth
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    Glad to hear you got it working, Wolfman. I was going to point you to the photo of mine a page or two back, but you don't need it.

    However, you might have a read and see the grief we had with the wires wearing through. Could be helpful.

  6. #176
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    Jun 2009
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    Perth
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    Gearbox

    TJ,

    Thanks. We had a spare we bought (cheap) from Peter, which he said had been rebuilt by somebody already, so we thought we'd whack it in and see how it went.

    Having removed the old one, we decided to replace the primary shaft as the replacement box had been sitting around for a year or more and the primary shaft spline was a bit rusty. Below you can see what oozed out when we cracked ours open...

    As you can see, the lubrication value in that was probably limited!

    After pulling the primary shaft off the "new" one we discovered the retaining bolt on the layshaft was not screwed in - it was just sitting there loose. Terrifying. Made us wonder about the rest of the box, but we didn't want to disassemble it and after we had the replacement primary shaft back in it all seemed to work so we took a chance and fitted it.

    Works a treat. Took it for a drive and everything's sweet.

    So now we have the old one to rebuild when we have time and inclination. I agree it would be interesting and instructive.

    How's everything going down your way?

    The second photo is the old gearbox still in situ after we had it ready to lift out. You can see the new exhaust, re-routed to leave the area behind the rear diff free for the long-range tank.

    Cheers,
    Lane.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #177
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    smurf village
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    wow and i thought my s1 gearbox was dirty well actually yours looks clean just the wrong colour,like your work keep it up watching with great interest

  8. #178
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    May 2009
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    Austral, Sydney, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by lane View Post
    Glad to hear you got it working, Wolfman. I was going to point you to the photo of mine a page or two back, but you don't need it.

    However, you might have a read and see the grief we had with the wires wearing through. Could be helpful.
    Yes, I've been reading through this thread, and saw what you meant about the wires wearing. I have checked mine, and they seem to be ok. Then I've just put in a brand new dissy, so I shouldn't have that problem.. (So Far that is )

    My problem was trying to get the electronic one working. (Hard to do without the proper instructions).. And noticed that you had the same one. So I asked..

    Cheers,
    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  9. #179
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    Perth
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    Electronic ignition

    And the electronic ignition fitted.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #180
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    Jun 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfman_TWP View Post
    My problem was trying to get the electronic one working. (Hard to do without the proper instructions).. And noticed that you had the same one. So I asked..
    Yes, sorry I didn't get the answer back immediately. Everybody here has been so helpful, it would be nice to give something back.

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