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Thread: Are huge tyres worth it?

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    Would be good to get a heap of us together in Series vehicles at a place like Big Tree Road or the Powerline Track behind Perth!
    Indeed!

  2. #62
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    If you ever over my way i will gladly do a comparison, your 109 skiny small tyres on full pressure, vs my 110 on 37s on 7-8psi.... i'll bring the snatch strap!

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal415 View Post
    If you ever over my way i will gladly do a comparison, your 109 skiny small tyres on full pressure, vs my 110 on 37s on 7-8psi.... i'll bring the snatch strap!
    Then once I get stuck I'll let mine down as well. HA!

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    Then once I get stuck I'll let mine down as well. HA!
    In my experience of running tyres in 7.50 x R16, 33x10.5 x R15, 235/85/R16 and 255/85/R16 over the last year on my 110. I honestly prefer the 33's for both handling and offroad ability, 235/85/R16 for on road handling/acceleration. 7.50 x R16 for the acceleration.


    7.50 at 12 - 15psi will get you most offroad places the average person in a landrover wants to.

    I'm sick of seeing these places time after time so a turbo and better brakes are to be fitted then another set of 33's.

    Bigger tyres will get you to the other places, plus they absorb a lot of the imperfections in your steering and suspension. Exception, multistory carparks, but who goes in them in a 110?

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    ... which reminds me how much I HATE Qld's ridiculous restrictions on overall tyre diameter being no more than +15mm rolling diameter from standard factory tyre !
    So in effect for a series III what would that mean?

    For example the SIII au military Land Rover has a 6 cyl motor 11" brakes and lifted suspension which makes virtually identical to the SIII 1 Ton model they have 36" (255/100 R16) tyres standard. That would make you able to go to 36.5" tyres under Qld laws wouldn't it?

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    The aerosol method you show is just for bead reseating - you still need a compressor for inflation. You need to remove the valve core when researing using that method, otherwise the valve stem will be blown out if you use too much aerosol.
    I've never had that problem but I do remove the valve anyway as, when the tyre cools down (after 2-3 sec), it can suck itself back off the bead again. Take the valve out & it sucks in air instead.
    Scott

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    So in effect for a series III what would that mean?

    For example the SIII au military Land Rover has a 6 cyl motor 11" brakes and lifted suspension which makes virtually identical to the SIII 1 Ton model they have 36" (255/100 R16) tyres standard. That would make you able to go to 36.5" tyres under Qld laws wouldn't it?

    Diana
    Series 3 Owner's manual lists 9.00 x 16 for 109s - no restriction to the One Ton.
    (My 2a manual restricts 9.00x16 to FCs)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    So in effect for a series III what would that mean?

    For example the SIII au military Land Rover has a 6 cyl motor 11" brakes and lifted suspension which makes virtually identical to the SIII 1 Ton model they have 36" (255/100 R16) tyres standard. That would make you able to go to 36.5" tyres under Qld laws wouldn't it?

    Diana
    Indeed - who's to sat what size tyres they came with originally.

    And when the NCOP is adopted in QLD the rules will either change to +26mm or +50mm. WHich would mean you can run 38" tyres and still be "legal"

    Now, who makes 37" or 38" tyres which will fit on a 7x16" rim AND are ADR/DOT approved???

  9. #69
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    A bit of an update

    Since the infamous mud incident at the start of this thread both 4wd's have been on several trips.

    The S3 has since proven itself on the beach with no problems going over the soft hot sand at Buffalo beach W.A. with 12psi in the tyres, a Prado with standard tyres on the same trip got bogged to the axles and had to be snatched out. I was lacking confidence before we pulled onto the beach and had a good laugh of relief when I passed a 60 Series Cruiser with fats. I've since been told that a leading Australian 4wd magazine has published that it is the length of the tyres, not the width, that makes the difference on sand when let down.

    The Nissan has not yet gone on the beach, but has done a few more treks out in the bush. Both rear brake calipers have had their bolts break and the steering link rod has snapped (the owner has since welded it back together).

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post

    The Nissan has not yet gone on the beach, but has done a few more treks out in the bush. Both rear brake calipers have had their bolts break and the steering link rod has snapped (the owner has since welded it back together).
    Thanks for the update TJ; I have heard the same thing about skinny tyres as well.

    On the subject of steering linkages being welded, I think the owner should know that:
    1. It is illegal in WA to repair-weld any part of the steering system.
    2. This is because the strength of the weld and the change to the metallurgy next to the weld, affects the strength of the component, which can lead to catastrophic failure!
    3. If his vehicle gets inspected it will get red-stickered.

    The last ghastly accident I can recall was the case of a truck converted to a bus, where the drag link had been shortened. Loaded with school children on holiday it crashed in SA (I think) killing several of the passengers!

    Ring him now!

    Cheers Charlie

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