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Thread: Disc Brake Conversion.

  1. #231
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    Garry

    The original ventilated disks on Range Rovers were Ford F100 rotors purchased un-drilled from DBA. Then Vitese Developments in Melbourne heard about these conversions being done privately in Sydney and contacted DBA to get exclusive rights to the F100 rotors. Rover followed up with an OEM ventilated disk on later RRc models.

    So yes you can get undrilled rotors from DBA but they can be awkward whether they supply or not.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sideroad View Post
    Just having a look at other discs.
    The ford bronco has a 5 stud with a PCD of 139.7 and has a disc with a 108mm center hole.

    http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba579
    or even better,
    http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba510

    Hilux as posted by TJWA.
    http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba154

    This could also get the caliper further away from the swivel hub and the disc more protected by the wheel. It is much more expensive though.
    At this stage, I'm thinking the best solution could be to combine Sideroad's idea for a disc/ring/plate and one I have had.

    If we built a thick spacer, say 20mm thick or more to mount to the back of the hub, we could have 5 holes in it corresponding to the stud holes in the hub. If we then got longer studs, they could go through the spacer ring then through the hub to the other side. This would securely hold the spacer ring against the hub and not reduce the hub's strength in any way.

    We could then have another 5 threaded holes in the spacer ring evenly spaced between the stud holes for the disc to attach to.

    Then, by simply choosing a 5 hole disc which has less height than the one we have now the spacer would be made the right thickness to compensate.

    Sideroad has already found a disc which may be suitable.

    http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba579

    We need a total height of 49mm, the plate above is 29mm high so we would make the spacer ring between the hub and the disc 20mm thick.

  3. #233
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    Was just wondering if LRO has had a chance to pull his apart aswell so we can see what those are to..Mite be able to combine with them aswell ?

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  4. #234
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    This path could work. How critical is the disc thickness?
    If we change the disc thinkness we may need to change the caliper, which changes the mounting plate, which puts back to square one.
    Here is a disc with 5 holes, similar disc dia and height but is much thicker. http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba770 it is off a Toyota dyna, so the rating would never be an issue.
    What are our critical dimensions?

    If we were to go with what has worked and has been done, we are far more likely to do this project. So I would suggest we work with a 49mm height(be it disc or disc and spacer), similar thickness and dia, same calipers, and regardless of the no. of stud holes use what fits and make a ring/disc/plate to bolt it to the hub (as a spacer or internal). I do like the idea of the spacer between the hub and disc as it gives room to deal with the hub webs and different no. of disc stud holes.
    I still don't think the no.of holes is the biggest issue.It can be worked around.

    Quote Originally Posted by TJWA View Post
    At this stage, I'm thinking the best solution could be to combine Sideroad's idea for a disc/ring/plate and one I have had.

    If we built a thick spacer, say 20mm thick or more to mount to the back of the hub, we could have 5 holes in it corresponding to the stud holes in the hub. If we then got longer studs, they could go through the spacer ring then through the hub to the other side. This would securely hold the spacer ring against the hub and not reduce the hub's strength in any way.

    We could then have another 5 threaded holes in the spacer ring evenly spaced between the stud holes for the disc to attach to.

    Then, by simply choosing a 5 hole disc which has less height than the one we have now the spacer would be made the right thickness to compensate.

    Sideroad has already found a disc which may be suitable.

    http://www.dba.com.au/products/dba579

    We need a total height of 49mm, the plate above is 29mm high so we would make the spacer ring between the hub and the disc 20mm thick.

  5. #235
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    OK my Daft time again .. If we use a spacer between the disc & hub isn't that going to cause all sorts of trouble with the bracket & caliper as it will now sit further back & when the hub is on it would hit the bracket & not go on properly...

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  6. #236
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    Hey Banjo,

    easy mistake to make. If you look at the link you will find it is to a disc with 29mm height as opposed to 49. And that is the 20mm mentioned as a spacer. So no change of caliper location. I have been thinking of the spacer idea(between hub and disc with stud for wheel going from spacer through hub for wheel). I think it is just adding another potential problem point re: stud holes in hub, tolerance issues and other rust surfaces. I do think a spacer sandwiched between hub and disc with the hub tapped and socket head bolts from the disc side would work.

    Quote Originally Posted by banjo View Post
    OK my Daft time again .. If we use a spacer between the disc & hub isn't that going to cause all sorts of trouble with the bracket & caliper as it will now sit further back & when the hub is on it would hit the bracket & not go on properly...

  7. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sideroad View Post
    Hey Banjo,

    easy mistake to make. If you look at the link you will find it is to a disc with 29mm height as opposed to 49. And that is the 20mm mentioned as a spacer. So no change of caliper location. I have been thinking of the spacer idea(between hub and disc with stud for wheel going from spacer through hub for wheel). I think it is just adding another potential problem point re: stud holes in hub, tolerance issues and other rust surfaces. I do think a spacer sandwiched between hub and disc with the hub tapped and socket head bolts from the disc side would work.
    I knew that. I just wanted to make sure you guys new what use where going on about ..

    I dont think an engineer would go for the bolts Studs being so long as to go through the spacer & hub for wheel studs..
    I once asked about wheel spacers & was told by an engineer that yes i could legaly use them but the spacer had to bolt to the hub & then the wheel bolted to the spacer as the spacer has the wheel studs in it...
    So the spacer had holes & studs in it ....

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  8. #238
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    Hi
    Have not had a chance to take the disk apart yet. Will get to it Tonight and take the mesurments, been to busy with work

  9. #239
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    It does seem as though we have hit a snag. Every conversion kit I can find uses a custom built hub to get around the problem of mounting the disc without weakening the hub. Really trying to think outside the square on this one.

    I'm guessing the bearing size or something would be different on the Defender / Disco hubs and we couldn't use one of them?

  10. #240
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    Hi
    Some of the bolts are a bit tight to get out. letting them soak for a little while. When i get them off will post up details.

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