YarnMaster
How hard is it to do the front brakes on a series 3. Just had a quote of 165 dollars. should add it is an 1982 Izusu 3.9 stage 1 LWB.
ForumSage
Subscriberthey are a real pain in the ass to bleed i had to take the whole asembaly off & sit them upside down on the swivel ball & then bleed them.with the backing plate facing up & level..
to change the shoes is easy follow the workshop manual if you have one or just take pics when pulling apart for referance,once back together adjust & your done.tighten the adjust then back them off 2 clicks..
RoverLord
If you follow the workshop manual's instructions, they are quite easy to do. Expect to have to replace hub seals, and possibly drums and brake adjusters. If you are replacing the wheel cylinders, bleeding will be necessary, and as indicated, this can sometimes give problems, although I am not sure why it is that some people have trouble and others do not.
Some suggestions for making bleeding easier:-
1. Clamp off all except one hose so that you only are doing one front wheel at a time.
2. Back adjusters right off to minimise the space for air to be trapped in.
3. Use pressure bleeding or reverse bleeding.
4. Remember that you can bleed at any union as well as at the bleed nipple.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Wizard
There pretty easy and now I know of the easy way to bleed them there even easyer
Your main problem might be that the springs on the shoes may need replacing and the brake line between top and bottom cylinder may be hard to remove but I had one made for 20 odd bucks
Adam
Swaggie
What exactly needs doing?
Just the linings replaced or the wheel cylinders as well?
Interbrake in Brisbane does exchange linings, etc quite cheaply - though there may be someone closer?
I never had a big issue with bleeding series brakes (unlike the 110 clutch...). Everything is fairly easy to do.
Super Moderator
If the system has air in the top front cylinder bleeding can be a pain.
Pressure bleeding can overcome the issue, however I believe it is a design flaw where the bleed screw is on the bottom cylinder where the air wants to rise up to the top cylinder.
The early SIIA 109" Forward Controls (where the 11" X 3" brakes were first used) had different plumbing. The hose from the chassis went to a bracket attached to the swivel seal retainer (some if not all SIII 109" have a similar bracket) from this bracket the brake pipe ran down to the bottom cylinder then a second pipe joined the bottom to the top cylinder and the bleed screw was in the top cylinder. Once the bottom cylinder has fluid further bleeding pushes air up to the top cylinder where it is expelled through the bleed nipple.
If there is air remaining in the system after bleeding then leaving the brakes overnight with weight on the peddle will usually allow for the air to rise to the top cylinder where it easily bleeds in the morning.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Fossicker
When i had to replace my front wheel cylinders it wasn't to bad using the manual, though i had to fight with the springs like all hell to get them back on. Is this normal, i just assumed thats how it is.
Also i have to give my brakes a good couple of pumps to get pressure breakin, i just assume this as being normal, but is it?
Ben
YarnMaster
I have been quoted $65-- plus GST to get mine relined at Tweed heads, sounded okay to me.Originally Posted by isuzurover
RoverLord
theres a sequence to them using a large screwdriver.
place the springs onto the shoes using a set of needlenose pliers.
lever the piston side of the shoes onto the slave cylinders then lever the anchor sides into postion. its a bit of an art but easy when youve done it a couple of dozen times.
If you have to pump your brakes to get them to apply properly and the pedal is not spongey then you have mis adjusted shoes.
there is half a dozen tricks in the book to get the brakes to bleed up.
1. prior to assembly prefill the brake cylinders with fluid, secure the pistons in place with an elastic band and close of the fitting with a blanking plug. when you put the shoes on extend the snail cam. fit the lines crack the top fitting for the joining pipe leave the top joint loose and back off the cam for the shoe that pushes on the lower cylinder. then when thats spat its air tighten the fitting and fit up the pipe that joins to the fitting. Bleed the brakes down to the pipe by putting your finger over the end and once you have good fluid there connect the fitting but leave it a little loose. Strap the shoes so they cant move, have some one or press and lock in place the brake pedal then loosen off the top fitting back off the top adjuster quickly and just before the shoe fully retracts close the fitting,.
fit a bleed nipple to the top cylinder and bleed it as tho it was a single, this usually helps eliminate the "did the air come from the cylinder or the line" problem. Once you have that sorted and good fluid coming down, line clamp the brake line fit up the joiner pipe and bleed up the bottom cylinder with the line clamp in place this ensures there is no back flow to the top cylinder.
.
park the vehicle on an angle that places the joint of the top cylinder to the connecting pipe at the highest point on the cylinder.
Reverse bleed the brakes.
attach an external vac source to the booster.
hope they help
Dave
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