Thread: Fitting stub axle collar

G'day Nick, Have you compared the new collar with the old one to make sure it is the same item?. Otherwise press it one with a hydraulic workshop press. That should do the trick.

I've eye-balled them, they look the same.

I don't have a hydraulic press.... researching one atm. What do you think of the 12t kin chrome unit?

Check the internal diameter with a vernier if you have one. The 12T kingchrome one should be fine for what you need. Otherwise bring them out here and we can press them in with my press.

Just measured them. Exactly the same.

When mine were done years ago he heated them to the colour of straw with his oxy and dropped them straight on. I had to have a pair done several years later and the new bloke pressed them on cold and destroyed one of the stub-axles!

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting quietly), plus 16 other parts/project cars (1xS2, 7xS2As, 8xS3s), soon increasing!!!

Personally I prefer the SIII type stubs because they are stronger, although you have to replace the whole stub instead of just the ring.

I thought that mine were the series 3..... I've found them on both my 109 1980 and 88 1975

If they are SIII they don't have collars, or didn't last time I looked. Also the 1980 should have parrallel bearings the same as the Renge Rover and One Ten


Correction the rears in SIII do have the collars the fronts don't. New knowledge is always good.