Thread: Land Rover 2.6 6 cyl help

A bit of diagnosis help. If the oil smoke is blown when accelerating after the engine has been idling, but then clears, it is likely to be from inlet valve stem seals. Relatively easy fix.

If it is more prominent when running under load, it is likely to be rings or worn (or glazed) bore. Bigger job, but a compression test may rule this in or out.

Depending on age (and whether it has been removed) it may have a positive crankcase ventilation, which can feed oil into the inlet in some circumstances, but if the engine runs OK this is unlikely to be the problem.

Valve (mis)adjustment cannot cause oil burning.

Also check that the oil level in the air cleaner is correct - overfill this and it will suck oil in (check for traces of oil at the carburettor).

thanks JD.

valve adjustment ruled out then.

carb is clean as a whistle inside after rebuild so that's not it.

I ran it 6 months ago when I got it, I let it warm up and revved it a bit etc. I couldn't do much in the way of a road test as the clutch was poor but the parts value way exceeded the price so a deal was struck.

I will have to do a compression test I guess. I need to buy a compression gauge tool any suggestions. once off test so cheap and cheerful ok?

Here's a few picks of the unit. Is the crank case vent system the bit I circled in yellow?

Maybe a clean of these parts and a full oil change, clean oil filter and run it for a good while before buying a compression tool?

Also could the oil cooler ( I think that's what it is) in the last photo be a be a problem?

Lastly I was reading last night on a rover car forum about some method of sticking BON AMI though the carb to deglaze the bores on its car cousin 2.6 and 3.0 engines? sounds like witch craft but I guess as the very very last resort if a rebuild is next, I might think about it...

Nothing magic about compression gauges, so I don't see a problem with a cheap one.

You have accurately picked the crankcase vent system. As I said, this is unlikely to be the problem.

Oil cooler cannot cause oil burning - about the only bad thing they do is leak.

Changing oil, perhaps using a somewhat heavier oil, and give it a bit of work may help.

I have heard of the bon ami idea, but I have neither used it nor talked to anyone who has, but I do see where it comes from.

Before deciding the engine needs overhauling, I would be inclined to pull the head off and have a look at the bores. If these are good, at most you are probably looking at pistons and rings, or even just rings. While apart, you would replace the big end bearings as a matter of course. But may well be a lot less than a full overhaul.

These engine's main weakness (apart from fuel consumption) is, at least anecdotally, a tendency to burn exhaust valves. I have seen two explanations for this. The first is that being hard to get at, the tappet clearance is neglected, the second is that a water distribution tube inside the block is often either removed for no good reason or rusts away due to unsuitable coolant, resulting in the back couple of exhaust valves overheating.

Hope this helps,

John

One of the most common reasons for smoky Rover 2.6 engines is inlet valve-stem oil seals, it is particularly a problem for engines that have not been run for some years as the seals dry our and crack.

To repair properly its a head off issue as you have to put the seals in when inserting the valves.

I have heard of people modifying the stem to accept the late 2 1/4 seals which are fitted without removing the head.

ok, sounds like a compression test for an info gathering exercise then head removal for valves seals and further inspection.

What size attachment is it for the sparkplug holes?

Do we have good suppliers for seals and head gasket sets is oz?

Is there anyone who works on these heads here ie reco them? How much should it cost to reco?

If it not too hard to do the seals, I can lap the valves. Its new ground for me but its going to be translated at some point so best to get it right prior to that.

Originally Posted by 109

ok, sounds like a compression test for an info gathering exercise then head removal for valves seals and further inspection.

What size attachment is it for the sparkplug holes?

Do we have good suppliers for seals and head gasket sets is oz?

Is there anyone who works on these heads here ie reco them? How much should it cost to reco?

If it not too hard to do the seals, I can lap the valves. Its new ground for me but its going to be translated at some point so best to get it right prior to that.

Any compression gauge will work - spark plug holes are standard 14mm.

Seals and head gasket should be available from any of the specialist Landrover suppliers in Australia. A good place to start would be 'Recommended Suppliers' in this forum.

Diana's suggestion that it is likely to be the valve stem seals confirms one of my suggestions. A possible test for this would be to have the engine idling with the inlet rocker cover off, and using an oil can squirt some very light engine oil on each valve stem - a leaking seal will suck the oil in and be immediately obvious from the smoke. It may also change the engine sound as the slight air leak is blocked.

John

John

Thankyou, I just need to get a gauge and get into it now.
these ideas are very helpful

There FWD in Melbourne, probably All Four x 4 in Kotara or Land Vehicle Spares in Silverdale. The seals are "O" rings so may be available from engineers suppliers