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Thread: Who has Painted and who has Paid?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    Personally I think any "restoration" using a roller or brush that wasn't that way from the factory is disgusting and am still to see anything that is even passable closer than 20 meters.
    If done carefully with a small roller it looks like it's been sprayed.
    My Series I hardtop was painted with household paint using a brush & roller. I chose to do this because it's made of canvas covered plywood and I checked on the old caravan sites for the best way to finish bondwood.

    Difficult to see in this photo but the finish is OK, the substrate is tired and damaged but the idea was to waterproof it after some repairs before heading to Cooma in 2008. Still looks OK.




    Like most things in life, just because someone tells you it can't be done doesn't mean it actually can't be done.......

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #12
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    And of course this Series 1 also has the coolest mirror ever made...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #13
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    I have painted a few cars using automotive enamel and professional spray gear with good results. The IIA needs redoing after 18 years though. This time it will be in the original olive drab - and probably with a brush. Many military landies were refinished in service with a brush and you can only tell the difference when up very close.

  4. #14
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    Thanks so much for your advice everyone, I think i will give it a crack myself! I already have a frame built and a bunch of plastic I can hang around it, Just need a compressor and gun.

    Another issue would be sourcing some original deep bronze green?? suggestions?

  5. #15
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    Someone will have the paint code. Once you have that, you can get it mixed anywhere that sells automotive paint.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #16
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    Deep bronze green paint code is BS318C-224. This is (or was?) a "British Standard" colour - not just a Land rover colour so most paint shops should have a formular for it.
    Regards,
    Scott

  7. #17
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    People that suggest brush, roller or rattle can spraying vehicles really shouldn't be giving advice on the topic. Or 'restoring' anything other than a weatherboard shack.

    Have a go spraying it yourself, do it with a decent 2 pack paint and it will come up nicely, should be able to do it for less than a few hundred dollars in paint. Land Rovers are easy to paint. Go for it!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MR LR View Post
    People that suggest brush, roller or rattle can spraying vehicles really shouldn't be giving advice on the topic. Or 'restoring' anything other than a weatherboard shack.
    Sorry, but I disagree. Many Land Rovers were painted with a brush as standard - my 101 for example, as well as most early Military Vehicles were. Does that mean I shouldn't be restoring my 101 because if I was a rivet counter, I'd certainly be breaking out a paint brush as part of the restoration. Also, a lot of owners of civilian Landies painted their pride and joys with a brush as they needed a spruce up, so it is IMO using a brush to paint one can actually be a very sympathetic way of restoring one if your not after a show room finish.

    Not everyone is after a shiny series vehicle when they restore one and putting them down like that is very narrow minded IMO.

    Also, not sure when you last bought a 'decent 2 pack' but I can tell you that a few hundred dollars certainly wouldn't buy the paint needed, let alone all the consumables. Also, 2 pack produces very toxic fumes when spraying and it is both illegal, and not recommended to use it as a DIY product in your garage.

    The 'Decent' 2 pack I use in the paint shop I work in occasionally runs to nearly $800 for 4 litres. Cheaper kits can be bought for much less, but you get what you pay for.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  9. #19
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    They were painted after market with a brush, they left the factory having been sprayed to my knowledge, I don't know why the factory would brush anything other than check-strokes on bolts etc...

    There is a difference between a restoration and maintenance... this is where the line is blurred.

    4L of paint is more than enough to paint a series body, I'd neglected to consider the chassis in this instance. The consumables are not too pricey if you already have the gear. We must have two very different paint suppliers...

    2 pack is not dangerous if you have the correct gear. In fact I've never even heard anyone other than back yarders carry on about it so much...

  10. #20
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    That's because professional paint shops comply with all OH&S and EPA requirements for the handling, use and disposal of the stuff so no, we don't go on about it because we know what is required. Unless you have full air wash helmets, you shouldn't be spraying 2 pack, but yes, a lot do. I actually value my brain cells.

    The shop I work in runs multiple booths that you can drive semi trailers through and has up to 15 people working in it - the owner gets paint at the right price, I can assure you. As an industrial coatings facility, their idea of decent and yours may differ. I guarantee you can't buy a 4 litre DuPont Imron kit for a few hundred dollars.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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