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Thread: Steering Relay

  1. #1
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    Steering Relay

    Knocked out the steering relay today, using the bag method.
    I have a cut front, so no matter how much heat and the use of a 20 ton press, we couldn't budge it.
    The pitting is at the top, but below where the seal runs I think.
    Bottom looks ok.
    It has a filler plug in the top, with a level plug in the part still stuck, with two holes on the inner part of the shaft.
    So filling should be a bit easier than others.
    Why did LR change from this idea ????
    What should I look for before reassembling the relay.
    Can the brass washer be turned upside down, as small groves, on one face.
    I will use 2 metal clips to hold the bushes before cutting the cable ties.
    I intend to add a few more loose ones before cutting, so it expands progressively.



    whitehillbilly
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  2. #2
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    Front end soaking in kero and brake fluid, around the relay, as a last attempt to get it out.
    Any ideas please.
    Just be good to get it out, clean and grease and put back in.

    whitehillbilly
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  3. #3
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    Had a look online.
    Maybe its only being held by the bottom, where it is slightly bigger, or do you think it maybe all the way up.
    I do have an empty chest freezer I could use !!!!!!!!
    Ideas please

    whitehillbilly

  4. #4
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    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    See if you can run a hacksaw blade alongside it. if you can, you may be able to dislidge enough of the rust etc to free it.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    Thanks John,
    That much gap ????
    will put a point on one and see how I go

    whitehillbilly

  6. #6
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    Series ones had the hollow shaft ones with the filler in the centre of the shaft.
    If you plan on serious driving scrap it, believe me I know. They can break the shaft with nasty consequences.
    Later ones had the solid shaft and are stronger but still known to fracture now and then with big tires and power steering.

    Keith

    PS.
    I had one so stuck once that after I removed the guts I had to use the oxy to gouge the inside of the casting enough to break it up without cutting into the chassis.
    Last edited by 123rover50; 14th August 2016 at 06:26 AM. Reason: more info

  7. #7
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    Just got one out of a Series III chassis without too much fuss (luck more than anything else). All around the relay was dirt, rust etc which you are trying to loosen to extract it. Yes it is a close fit at the bottom but not at the top.
    I soaked it for a few days in penetrating oil had a jack underneath and levered on the lugs at the top. Using packers & levering each side in turn it slowly came out.

    The bronze/brass thrust washers I've seen didn't have any grooves, don't see why you can't install then the other way round.

    Things to look for are rust pitting on the tapered surfaces the Tufnul bushes bushes bear on and the area where the seal sits.


    Some details here of how to make the compression tool Isuzu C240 powered Series 3
    You can use the hole through the shaft. Clamp one set of Tufnol bushes in place (hose clamp) assemble the steel washer & spring then a bar is inserted through the spring & rotated until the spring is compressed enough to clamp the other Tufnol bushes in place. Make sure the hose clamp you use leaves enough room for the bushes to be partly inserted into the relay housing.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #8
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    If you have a large gas torch or oxy setup, heat the whole area up red hot and belt it out with a sledge hammer (don't miss!). Find a bit of steel to use put on top of the relay so you don't hit the chassis. Had to remove two of these like this in the last month. You could also weld around on the inside of the case to shrink it down

    Cheers Paul

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Series ones had the hollow shaft ones with the filler in the centre of the shaft.
    If you plan on serious driving scrap it, believe me I know. They can break the shaft with nasty consequences.
    Later ones had the solid shaft and are stronger but still known to fracture now and then with big tires and power steering.

    Keith

    PS.
    I had one so stuck once that after I removed the guts I had to use the oxy to gouge the inside of the casting enough to break it up without cutting into the chassis.

    I second that, check over that shaft for fatigue or cracking if you intend on re using it, if in doubt replace it. It is not cool when they break.

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