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Thread: Steering Relay Bottom Seal

  1. #1
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    Steering Relay Bottom Seal

    Howdy folks,

    Is it possible to change the bottom seal without pulling the whole thing apart or dying from a violent spring insertion into body parts unknown?

    Could semi fluid grease be used instead of oil?

    TIA

  2. #2
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    Yes, you can take the retainer and seal off from below after removing the bottom steering arm. The tapered bushes and big spring won't come out.
    That spring isn't all that scarey anyway.
    The top of the shaft should have a small threaded plug which seals an oil passage. You can fit a grease nipple and inject oil or grease. I use diff oil.
    Terry
    80 109" 2.6 P ex Army GS, saved from the scrappie.
    95 300tdi 130 Single cab tray.
    2010 Guzzi 750

  3. #3
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    As an addendum to Rover-56's comments: Early relays, up to about Series 2, had a plug on top of the shaft (which was drilled) for filling, and a plug on the side at the top of housing to allow air out.

    The drilled shaft was discontinued during Series 2 production, and the air hole a little later in early Series 2a production. Later relays, use one of the top seal retainer holes for filling, another one to let the air out. And don't lose these bolts either - they are 1/4" BSF from memory (later ones might be UNF) but the heads are the size smaller than standard, so they are special parts.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    As an addendum to Rover-56's comments: Early relays, up to about Series 2, had a plug on top of the shaft (which was drilled) for filling, and a plug on the side at the top of housing to allow air out.

    The drilled shaft was discontinued during Series 2 production, and the air hole a little later in early Series 2a production. Later relays, use one of the top seal retainer holes for filling, another one to let the air out. And don't lose these bolts either - they are 1/4" BSF from memory (later ones might be UNF) but the heads are the size smaller than standard, so they are special parts.

    John


    Like mine.

    Cheers Rod

  5. #5
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Your bits look to be in pretty good shape!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Your bits look to be in pretty good shape!

    John

    Its all done and back on the chassis now


    Cheers Rod

  7. #7
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    Don't get the seal from a LR supplier, go to a bearing stockist they should have it on the shelf. Usually better quality than the replacement LR part.

    As suggested, as long as the internals aren't rusted just change the seal & gasket in situ.

    1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)

    If you replace the seal then EP90 will stay in place so no need to use fluid grease, plus a lot easier to fill it up.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Don't get the seal from a LR supplier, go to a bearing stockist they should have it on the shelf. Usually better quality than the replacement LR part.

    As suggested, as long as the internals aren't rusted just change the seal & gasket in situ.

    1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)

    If you replace the seal then EP90 will stay in place so no need to use fluid grease, plus a lot easier to fill it up.


    Colin
    Yeah i got mine from CBC.

    Cheers Rod

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