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Thread: Series 3 Rust Treatment - My First Bit Of Work On My Land Rover

  1. #1
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    Series 3 Rust Treatment - My First Bit Of Work On My Land Rover

    My 1976 S3 SWB is sitting in my driveway for the first time tonight.
    Aside from just enjoying it, there's a few small things I need to take care of. First up is surface rust on the bulkhead.

    I think most of it will clean up with a wire brush and sandpaper, doesn't look like I'll need any power tools but we'll see after I get started.
    When it comes to treating it, can I use the Bondall Ranex Rustbuster I've got in my shed? Bondall Ranex Rustbuster

    What do you guys use afterwards to protect it before paint?

    I'm hoping I can match the paint as best as possible. I've searched the forums and the google machine, as best as I can gather my paint is Bronze Green/Ascot Green. It's got 40 years of fade, however.

    Any experience matching this?

    IMG_20170227_201505-cropped.jpgFirstDayHome-cropped.jpg
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  2. #2
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    Try some Pennetrol (Bunnings) for the bare metal and surface rust repair. I've used it with good results as have others here. It's not as "nasty" as some of the other brands
    As far as matching the paint you may have to take a sample of the paint in and get it matched by your paint supplier
    Looks like the 2/4wd selector gator securing strap has that colour on it
    That may make a good sample
    Enjoy!!!
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  3. #3
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    Excellent, thanks Phil.

  4. #4
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    The colour looks like Spanish Olive, used during the 'Leyland' period (that's Leyland motors not the Leyland Brothers.....)
    I created a thread on the paint code some time back but cannot locate it now.


    Here it is Spanish Olive paint code


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    The colour looks like Spanish Olive, used during the 'Leyland' period (that's Leyland motors not the Leyland Brothers.....)
    I created a thread on the paint code some time back but cannot locate it now.


    Here it is Spanish Olive paint code


    Colin
    Thanks Colin,

    Reading through your linked thread, how did that spray can from Autobarn go? Did it match well?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cowboy Don View Post
    Thanks Colin,

    Reading through your linked thread, how did that spray can from Autobarn go? Did it match well?
    Only did some small parts but it was a good match.
    Problem is it was about $35 for the can so mostly I've used the 4litres of acrylic that came with the vehicle when I got it. Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

    I've also now found a paint supplier with an old Dulon book and they can mix to the old codes, otherwise most will mix to a sample.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #7
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    Don,
    if you want to stop dirt and crud sitting inside the front guards make up some spacers to hold the splash guard away from the footwells.
    The main reason the footwells rot out is due to dirt sitting there. Nylon spacers cut from an old cutting board/breadboard
    with a 20mm holesaw do the job. You may need longer bolts. On the drivers side, if your vehicle has the steering box cover, you may need to
    tinker about a bit. Howevere for some unkown reason, often the steering box cover has been removed.
    Having the splashguards spaced away from the footwell allows you to hose the dirt/mud out easily.
    By the way, nice looking series 3 88 you have there.

    Cheers, Mick.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  8. #8
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    X2 what Mick suggested
    Makes cleaning out mud easy
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  9. #9
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    Thanks, I'll look into that. I happen to have a few nylon cutting boards in the shed "just in case".

    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    Don,
    if you want to stop dirt and crud sitting inside the front guards make up some spacers to hold the splash guard away from the footwells.
    The main reason the footwells rot out is due to dirt sitting there. Nylon spacers cut from an old cutting board/breadboard
    with a 20mm holesaw do the job. You may need longer bolts. On the drivers side, if your vehicle has the steering box cover, you may need to
    tinker about a bit. Howevere for some unkown reason, often the steering box cover has been removed.
    Having the splashguards spaced away from the footwell allows you to hose the dirt/mud out easily.
    By the way, nice looking series 3 88 you have there.

    Cheers, Mick.

  10. #10
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    The nylon (or other) spacers are fitted to the bolts that go in these holes.

    Cheers, Mick.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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