Thread: Series III - SWB - New find - replace rusty rear spring hangers

Originally Posted by lammy

Hi Guys,

......

Qn 1: After fitting the new exhaust I still register a reading of carbon monoxide, granted its pretty low ~45. Has anyone else had this issue?

I've never heard of anyone actually measuring this! If all the joints have no apparent leaks you should have no issues.

Qn 2: I scoped out what is involved with the gear box mounts and it seems there is a cross member that covers the nut, is that just my car or everyones? Does anyone have any tips (i.e. where to place the jack, how to navigate the cross member issue etc) for replacing the gear box mounts.

They are fiddly to get at, a lot easier if you take out the floor and seat box - which you probably need to do anyway. Just keep track of all the fasteners, little bits etc. Ziplock snadwich bags are very handy as mentioned by an earlier poster.

Qn 3: With the engine mounts, where exactly on the engine would I place the jack? Its not that obvious to the untrained eye unfortunately. The jack I have is 1500kg so I'm assuming it will be big enough?

Jack is plenty big enough. I would jack with a wooden block under the crankshaft pulley.

Qn 4: From the list below what else would be an easy project for a novice?




The list
- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Thanks for your help guys. Hoping to have the old girl on the road by the end of the year.

Hope this helps you.

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Hope this helps you.

Thanks heaps John