Thread: Series III - SWB - New find - replace rusty rear spring hangers

Originally Posted by lammy

Hi Guys,

......
Mechanic 1: chassis is too far gone don't spend another cent on it, unsafe to drive a child in the car, would cost $15k to get it roadworthy.

Probably unfamiliar with Series Landrovers. And it will never meet the safety features of a modern car - if you expect it to, stop now.

Mechanic 2: Quote from body repairer = $2500 to repair chassis with an engineers certificate, and the large list of things needed for the road worthy below.

Can't be much wrong with it if only $2500 for chassis repairs from a body repairer! Most of that will be labour.

- front diff seals leaking
Unclear - there is only one front diff seal, on the pinion. About half an hour and a $10 part for an experienced mechanic, a couple of hours if you have never done it before. If he also includes the swivel seals, a much bigger job, but still only a couple of hundred for parts even if you need to replace the top swivel pin and railko bushes. At best could be just removing a shim. If not bad, quite likely getaway with just refill the swivels with "one shot" semiliquid grease and degrease the area.

- engine mounts split
Simple, easy, cheap.

- radiator support rusted

Unclear what he is talking about, and cost depends on how bad is the rust.

- gearbox mount split
Simple, easy, cheap.

- rear diff hat leaking

Not clear what he is talking about. Probably the pinion seal, not a big job and cheap.

- grill and apron support rusted

Again, depends how badly rusted

- whole exhaust rusted

Possibly it all needs replacing, but surface rust is not a roadworthy issue with an exhaust system, and it sounds like he is looking for work!

- gear box housing leaking

Extremely unlikely the actual housing is leaking. It will be a seal, a gasket or an O-ring, none of which will be expensive, but may involve significant labour.

- oil filter housing leaking

Most likely it is not, but it is almost impossible to change the filter without getting the area oily. At worst it will be an O-ring.

- steering damper bushes split

Simple, cheap, easy.

- brake lines stiff

I assume he means the flexible lines. Not a big job and not very expensive to replace.

- drag line ball joints leaking

I have no idea what a drag line is on a Series Landrover. Perhaps he refers to the tie rod ends. There are six of these, and if the seals are damaged they would need replacing - in most circumstances the TRE would need replacing if the seal is damaged, although I would think that it should only fail roadworthy if there is play in the joint. And if it is a greasable joint, it will normally have grease on and round it. Again, sounds as if he is looking for work!

- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease

The steering damper does not have ball joints - what is he talking about? Maybe the tie rod ends on the steering relay?

- body mounts rusted

Depends what he is talking about, and what is meant by rusted. Probably one or more chassis outrigger needs replacing or repairing. Parts are available, and it may not be a big job unless theyt are all badly rusted.

Not sure what to do?

Did the mechanic have experience with Series Landrovers? You need to talk to a Landrover experienced mechanic, and get to know some of your local owners.

Any thoughts on what the cost of that list would be, the mechanic didn't have time to price it up.

Looks like my budget of $5k is blown. Looks like my hopes for getting her on the road for summer is a pipe dream.

Assuming a standard restoration am I liklely to be in the $5k-$10k range or $10k-$15k range? Is it worth finding another series 3 and starting from a cleaner canvas?

P.S. Took a cool pic today - beauty (Land Rover) and the beast (Ferrari).

Attachment 145316

It is impossible to say from the available information what the cost would be - a major factor will be how you plan to do the work (i.e. are you doing any of the work?) but also how much of a perfectionist the mechanic or panel beater is, and whether they have done enough work on similar vehicles to know what they are doing.

One thing you need to be well aware of - a Series Landrover is not an investment; it will not increase in value by anything like the amount you spend on it!

Originally Posted by JDNSW

It is impossible to say from the available information what the cost would be - a major factor will be how you plan to do the work (i.e. are you doing any of the work?) but also how much of a perfectionist the mechanic or panel beater is, and whether they have done enough work on similar vehicles to know what they are doing.

One thing you need to be well aware of - a Series Landrover is not an investment; it will not increase in value by anything like the amount you spend on it!

Thanks very much John. I'm extremely fresh to this game (as you probably quickly figured out) so I have no concept other than that which is offered from the mechanic. Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

My wife got a bit worried after the mechanic said the car wasn't safe for a child. I'm still not sure what I am going to do. I went and had a look at another lady today to see what $10k would buy me for comparison. The owner mentioned he spent $14k on it (as per the car sales ad) so I was keen to see what you get for that investment. It looked a lot cleaner than my car but surprisingly (for me anyway) had chassis work on multiple spots. I took some picks for my reference. Keen to hear your thoughts. It drove well and when I braked hard it didn't fly left like mine or pop out of third. All in all a decent car. Still not sure whether I could get to that same point for $5k or whether I should look at buying a car like the attached and arrive there for less outlay (obviously missing the experience of restoration as well).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TxJs8uuuB9AiX3ME9

Keen to hear any thoughts.

Cheers,
Adam

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Hi Adam.

I agree with everything that Paul has said. There are common areas of rust in these vehicles with common repair panels also available for said provlems.

These cars are like big mechano sets, pretty much everything bolts on and off.

Do yourself a favour - pull it apart yourself, take a million photos, use samdwhich log bags, write on the bags what it is and where you took it from. Once the body is off you can find either a mechanic or mobile welder and ask them to take a look.

I did that with one of my vehicles. The rear cross member needed replacing (a common rust area). The mechanic got me to supply the replacement part and even prepare the surfaces (sand back to bare metal). He then measured, cut and welded the new replace cross member on. I think he charged me $200 in labour and that was it.

Parts are easy to get. It’s labour that costs a bomb - which you can save on by doing a lot of stuff yourself.

And if you want to get it painted-guess what, you have already pulled the body apart/off so with a trailer (or a few ute loads) you can take the panels to a painter. You have already save them some labour by pulling it apart. Depending on how far you want to go, you can either sand it back to bare metal (takes time but can be done) or get a sand blaster to do it. Saving more money at the painter.

Your budget sounds possible but things do start to add up - like tyres, a battery, brakes, seats (maybe), etc.

It won’t be ready this summer but depending on how dedicated you are - it could be for next summer!

Go for it - it will be a great project and you will always look at the car with pride and think “I did that”.

There are plenty of knowledgeable folks on here, with great experience and willing to offer advice.

Where abouts are you in Melbourne?

Cheers,
GG

Thanks heaps for your reply GG.

I'm located in Brighton East VIC. My issue so far has been finding a mechanic (even an amateur mechanic) who can help guide me through the process. Other than this forum, the land rover club and a few youtube vids that I've watched I'm not that confident (yet) - confidence is building though - even if it is false confidence atm haha.

If you know of anyone that might be able to help even if I have to drive a bit please let me know.

Cheers,
Adam

Fred Smith in Bayswater could do the work but he’s always busy.
I counted 13 Land Rovers parked in his street last week, and another 10-20 outside the factory, then there are his Jags.

Four Wheel Drives used to do repair work, l’ll have to speak to their mechanic and see if they still take this sort of work on. The welding repairs might be an issue.

Most if the list is fairly straightforward, you just need to find a good welder.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Fred Smith in Bayswater could do the work but he’s always busy.
I counted 13 Land Rovers parked in his street last week, and another 10-20 outside the factory, then there are his Jags.

Four Wheel Drives used to do repair work, l’ll have to speak to their mechanic and see if they still take this sort of work on. The welding repairs might be an issue.

Most if the list is fairly straightforward, you just need to find a good welder.


Colin

Thanks Colin,

I sent my shopping list (mechanics list) to Karen at four wheel drives today - Karen was super helpful and super knowledgeable. Karen is going to ask her team in Melbourne who they would recommend for the chassis work. I visited Grahame Carter (Braiside VIC) on a recommendation from the previous owner of my SWB Series 3. Turns out Grahame can do the work but not for 10 weeks.

Cheers,
Adam

Originally Posted by lammy

Thanks Colin,

I sent my shopping list (mechanics list) to Karen at four wheel drives today - Karen was super helpful and super knowledgeable. Karen is going to ask her team in Melbourne who they would recommend for the chassis work. I visited Grahame Carter (Braiside VIC) on a recommendation from the previous owner of my SWB Series 3. Turns out Grahame can do the work but not for 10 weeks.

Cheers,
Adam

Adam,
Karen has just started back with Four Wheel Drives, she's based in WA but answers the phones.
The person she'll ask is the same person I'd ask.

Fred Smith is likely to be the same lead time.

Best of luck.


Colin

Originally Posted by lammy

Hi Guys,

Just had feedback from a couple of mechanics,

Mechanic 1: chassis is too far gone don't spend another cent on it, unsafe to drive a child in the car, would cost $15k to get it roadworthy.

Mechanic 2: Quote from body repairer = $2500 to repair chassis with an engineers certificate, and the large list of things needed for the road worthy below.

- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Not sure what to do?

Any thoughts on what the cost of that list would be, the mechanic didn't have time to price it up.

Looks like my budget of $5k is blown. Looks like my hopes for getting her on the road for summer is a pipe dream.

Assuming a standard restoration am I liklely to be in the $5k-$10k range or $10k-$15k range? Is it worth finding another series 3 and starting from a cleaner canvas?

P.S. Took a cool pic today - beauty (Land Rover) and the beast (Ferrari).

Attachment 145316

Hi Guys,

So my foray into the world of home mechanics seems to have gone ok. I managed to pull out the old exhaust system and fit a complete new one. There were only 3 parts so admittedly its hard to go wrong. Before I tackle the next few items on the list I was hoping to get the good oil on a few things.

Qn 1: After fitting the new exhaust I still register a reading of carbon monoxide, granted its pretty low ~45. Has anyone else had this issue?

Qn 2: I scoped out what is involved with the gear box mounts and it seems there is a cross member that covers the nut, is that just my car or everyones? Does anyone have any tips (i.e. where to place the jack, how to navigate the cross member issue etc) for replacing the gear box mounts.

Qn 3: With the engine mounts, where exactly on the engine would I place the jack? Its not that obvious to the untrained eye unfortunately. The jack I have is 1500kg so I'm assuming it will be big enough?

Qn 4: From the list below what else would be an easy project for a novice?


The list
- front diff seals leaking
- engine mounts split
- radiator support rusted
- gearbox mount split
- rear diff hat leaking
- grill and apron support rusted
- whole exhaust rusted
- gear box housing leaking
- oil filter housing leaking
- steering damper bushes split
- brake lines stiff
- drag line ball joints leaking
- steering damper ball joints split/leaking grease
- body mounts rusted

Thanks for your help guys. Hoping to have the old girl on the road by the end of the year.

Originally Posted by lammy

- radiator support rusted
- grill and apron support rusted
- body mounts rusted

Hey mate,
Sounds like a bit of list on your hands, most is general age seals mounts etc..

I would be concerned about these, maybe put some photos up so we can define "rusted" flakey paint and rusty surface or completed eaten and rusted out.
If you have a decent budget just get an engineer to fix the chassis and do the rest yourself.
Cheers Jim