Thread: Correct installation of headers/extractors?

Welcome to the forum. 😊

Yes, that looks dodgy to me - a slip joint that is exhaust tight is no dramas, but one that leaks is not. I’d be asking them to rectify this.

One could argue that welding the pipes together could be an issue if the joint has to be separated at a later date - particularly if the last few mm of the extractors had to be cut off.

So for me some sort of joint would be preferred - if it was me I would prefer either end be flared to fit a circular seal with a bolt together flange to hold it together. However failing that how he has done it with an exhaust clamp, whilst unsightly is Ok - my mufflers on my jag and 101 are similar, however they do not leak exhaust gas - it is actually a roadworthy issue. Your guy has either mismatched pipe sizes where one fits into the other or has not pushed them in far enough and the slots in the outer pipe that allow the clamp to tighten up are not fully covered by the internal pipe and are letting a bit of gas out.

You need to take it back and as a minimum get the exhaust leaks fixed and preferably, though not essential, have a different method to the clamp of joining the pipes.

Garry

Poor fit indeed, but nothing a $10 tube of exhaust gasket sealant won't fix.
As for the performance aspects of this engine... negligible.

Thanks everyone.

I took it back and he apologised, put roof and gutter silicone in the join and tightened the clamp. We'll see if the seal holds. If not I'll take it back.

Marcel

thats DAF.....

roof silcone wont hold... tuned and driven right you'll get the 2.25 hi comp engine to glow the manifolds.....

There is an argument that can be put forwards for a certain type of venturi setup in the exhaust that draws fresh air in post extractors to help "clean" the exhaust coming out the back of the pipe BUT.. for a series of that vintage... not an issue.

More than happy to do a meet and greet with you at some point and close that exhaust up properly for you if you'd like.

I am with Dave - the exhaust guy should have fixed this properly.

He also put a small bead of sealant - presumably the same stuff - over the new manifold gasket that came with the extractors. So far it doesn't seem to have burnt or peeled, it looks OK.

Internet forums are divided over whether ordinary silicone is OK for exhausts. Some people suggest it should be OK against the head, which is kept relatively cool by the cooling system, and downstream of the muffler where the gases emerge cooler. In my case it has been used just upstream of the muffler.

In any case I found another reason not to trust the person who did the work: he left an inlet manifold bolt loose. It just needed a couple of extra washers and he either overlooked it or couldn't be bothered doing the job properly. After being charged $350 for the installation, which he said would be a bit tricky and time-consuming (that may well be true), I expect is a job well done. So I won't be going back to him.

Thanks for the kind offer to meet up sometime and help me fix this properly. Send me a private message when it suits. Happy to pay for your time and any parts required and I'll throw in a case of beer as well. I do need some expert advice on this 'restoration lite' project and this is best done with someone having a look over my landy.

I've booked in a full service with Series specialist Fred Smith in Bayswater. He seems to have a good reputation.

Marcel

Originally Posted by Marce

which he said would be a bit tricky and time-consuming

In retrospect,

That probably should have been your first clue while keeping one eye on your wallet, the other on the owner for you to engage R/lo and back slowly and carefully out of the place to a safe distance before giving it all available beans towards the specific direction of somewhere else.

Im a hack and I dont think a set of extractors and a muffle joint for a series is that hard to make up.