I would imagine you haven't bled it properly.
You did adjust the brakes up first before bleeding ????
I bought a one person bleeder kit from supercheap.
seems to work well.
whitehillbilly
 Bleeding 11" brakes
 Bleeding 11" brakes
		So I have read the many threads on bleeding brakes but still got an issue with my 11" brakes. The method i tries was typical, someone on the pedal applying pressure and then ill be cracking the nipple (we are still talking brakes). I also have a pump and have tried 'sucking' the fluid out via the nipple. This gave mixed results tho.
Issue i have is that the pedal still remains soft, and requires a few pumps to get it to where it should be. I use the brake switch on the junction as an indicator for pressure as the lights only come on after the 2nd or 3rd pump.
Now i have bled the system plenty and no air comes out... so why is the pedal still soft? Was wondering could the fluid be bypassing the piston seal, but if so then it shouldnt reach pressure at all, logically thinking. Or am I a wimp and havnet bled the system properly yet?
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
I would imagine you haven't bled it properly.
You did adjust the brakes up first before bleeding ????
I bought a one person bleeder kit from supercheap.
seems to work well.
whitehillbilly
I adjusted the snails to allow for minimal piston movement, and then tried it again with them out. Just wondering why theres still air in when I bleed the system only fluid comes out. Ill have to give that single person bleed system a go then.
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
						If it works after pumping, it is not air. The pistons are retracting. Most likely you have the shoes in wrong so the adjusters can’t work. It is easy to get them wrong.
Sounds like to me that the shoes are not adjusted up first.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Wind the adjusters out hard so the shoes are locked to the drums - check if there is pedal once you have done this - it will tell you if it's air or an adjustment issue.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Also, if they are new shoes you'll almost certainly need to radius them to the drums - this isn't hard to do at home - I'll see if I can dig up the post I did when I last did this.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
To amplify above - if you can pump up the brakes and the pedal is hard, not spongy, it is not a bleeding problem. If you can pump up the pedal so the brakes work but the pedal is spongy, you have a bleeding issue.
You may have both!
Possibly more common than air is the system are :- shoes incorrectly assembled, adjusters not staying put, drums out of tolerance, shoes not radiused to the drums (although unless badly out, you will get them to work, but frequent adjustment will be needed), drums out of round (I had a new one like this!), shoes not sitting straight (only early ones with adjustable steady posts), incorrect master cylinder pushrod clearance.
Note that if you really do have a bleeding issue, the system can be bled at any joint. clamp off all three flexible hoses. Confirm you have a solid pedal, bleed at joints as needed to get this, and if you still cant, fix the master cylinder issue - I have seen reports of faulty master cylinders. Then release on clampat a time and bleed that part of the system, again, using joints to bleed if necessary, but start at the bleeder.
Hope this helps - in over twenty five years running my 2a 109, I have never had issues with bleeding brakes.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Fantastic response all. Ill start with the brake shoes then, one wheel at a time. The symptoms are pump 2 or 3 times, each time the pedal travels less but still firm once under suitable pressure. When my wife was pumping the pedal, she did mention how at times it took only two pumps, then the next bleed it was back down to the floor again... very inconsistent.
Cheers,
Carlos
1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/
 Wizard
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Post a picture of each set of shoes with the drum off.
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