Thread: Tow bars for Series

Originally Posted by russellrovers

for insurance you need to be licenced welder

No you don’t. Show me a PDS from an insurance company that states this about a tow hitch built prior to ADR 62/00.

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Mine.

whitehillbilly

Any mine, modelled on Harry's (Ho Hars) .....
P1100703.jpgP1100704.jpg
Slightly different approach, having a plate on the inside of cross member, with crush tubes.

It really helps having a neighbour with a milling machine, four hours of milling to get through both plates.

I actually had mine welded by a professional welder in the end after realising that my welding was pretty bad.

Cheers,
John

If you want a protected location for your electric plug base, pop a light gauge plate over the back of the hole in the rear cross & fit the plug base to that inside. Make sure you leave a small drain hole in the back corner.

Had mine professionally welded.
Didn't want it falling off.
Handy having a welder mate who is two minutes around the corner.
I cut it all out, tacked it up and took it around with a 6 pack.

Whitehillbilly

That was my plan as well, and where I work runs a full blown engineering workshop.

But by the time I'd tacked it here, and there, and there, it was half done so I just followed through.
I think I will bring it in though before I paint it and have them check it over.

I call in with a beer for Rob, quite often. Usually Fri Arvo.
We are working on a Roll bar for Gilbert, to fit under the Canvas.
To be fitted once Registered.
Good work.
whitehillbilly

Mine...front, VE commodore towbar welded to front dumb irons. Rear...welded into rear x member and original tow plate, and onto second last x member, made from a VK commodore heavy duty towbar. Welded. Not removable.

How does the grease nipple on top of your steering relay work Rod

Cheers Paul