I bought some from all4xfour it’s dam close and you place the metal inside i bought some aluminium it looks close yo original
https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Front-D...-3-Aftermarket

I've been looking for a reasonable reproduction of the door seal material without success.
Purchased some from Paddocks and threw it away because it was rubbish, not even close to the original.
Tried a few extruders without success.
You can buy complete seal sets with the steel strip inserted, pre-drilled & bent to shape but at $200 per door plus freight from the UK it's getting expensive.
I don't like the idea of grinding back the aluminium and using Defender door seals so I'm looking for the correct profile so I can rivet into place as per original.
Has anyone found a supplier in Australia and if so could you post a picture of the cross section, just to confirm its correct.
I have just found a supplier that can apparently source it and await a sample, advert in Markets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/body-and-...ml#post3112296
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
I bought some from all4xfour it’s dam close and you place the metal inside i bought some aluminium it looks close yo original
https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Front-D...-3-Aftermarket

1960 series 2 143001010
1976 series 3 91331709c
06 discovery v6
2014 discovery tdv6
2010 cub supamatic drover
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
For the metal strip - years ago I found the steel strip used for some packaging is ideal.......
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I've attached a picture of the Paddocks seal material, some aftermarket seal I collected from somewhere and a piece of original.
The aftermarket looks similar to the seal from Allfourx4
I also found a picture of the seal you used to be able to get from Clark Rubber, this was different again, the slot for the strip was too big.
I await a sample from the local company I've contacted, fingers crossed.
Like John I'd looked at steel strapping (when boxes arrive at work) for the steel strip. While Googling I found this
Signet's Own Zinc Coated Steel Strapping - 12mm x 250m
This is the right width, a bit thicker and zinc coated ! Not sure I really need 250metres though.....
Here's a punch for making the holes in the steel strip P112 - PPS-7 Hole Punch Set | Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse
I inherited one of these from the Father-in-law.
Just need to source some tubular rivets to fit the seal (pop rivets will do but they tend to crush the seal).
Then I need a river squeezer.........
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
" river squeezer........."
I think you may mean "rivet squeezer"?
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterG'day Colin,
Just read this thread and replied here.
I bought my seal from Spectrum Rubber over 10 years ago (now Old auto rubber Australia) and lost them. Found them again last week and a job while in lock-down I thought.
The profile is the same as the original (260.011) however, the slot for the metal strip is a 10mm x 2.5mm rectangle. The original metal strip is 1/2". No way could I get it thru. The mounting holes have to line up with the strip and impossible to remove 1.35mm from both sides for approx 8 metres of strip.
In lock-down here, so no guillotining a 10mm strip of aluminum and also new strip would need marking out and drilled. Also would need hollow rivets and a squeezer as you say. Expensive. Big job!.
I punched a 3mm hole thru the sponge rubber and used 3/16" ALL aluminum pop rivets thru original holes in channel. Easy job and so easy to replace sections. The rivets do pull in the rubber to give a wave effect however, it is a Series and my daily driver. (I could have made a cut in the rivet mandrel to weaken it however it's a lot of rivets.)
The new seals sit higher so the door sits about 2mm out from the body when pulled in tight. So will set in after time I think.
Interesting I started the D/S front section of the seal today and the steel insert was badly rusted and useless so pop rivets was a good decision for me.
Also this seal is in 2 pieces because of the windscreen pivot and worked out how to fit them together so this join is waterproof by cutting an overlap profile in the bottom seal.
I used my air rivet gun to pull the rivets. Again easy on the hand.
A riveting job in Lock-down!!
Chris
Chris,
Sounds like the profile that was available from Clark Rubber, the slot was the wrong size.
The company I've approached will only sell me a 50mtr roll so I want to be 110% sure it's the correct. or as close to correct as possible, profile. They haven't come up with a sample yet, maybe it was sent to them by Australia Post so I need to allow a few more weeks !
There is another extruder I know in Melbourne that I can approach, problem is that if they still have the extrusion die there will be a setup charge.
I have an air rivet gun but I want to use the correct semi-tubular rivets for any seals replaced on my Series I or II. I'm looking at making a rivet squeezing tool but have checked out 'aircraft' rivet squeezers from the US because at some point I want to re-rivet the roof onto the guttering on my shorty tropical roof. This needs to be done reasonably quickly before any sealant sets so a squeezer might be the best option.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterG'day Colin,
All noted. The seal I bought was the only stuff available at the time in Sydney. It is good quality and nice to work with.
I cut a test piece to see how to do the the insert and pop rivets. However, the rivet head is 3/8" diameter so the top side of the slot needed a slightly smaller hole to get the head thru to the metal strip. I pulled a rivet with this setup and the seal pulled in with the slight wave.
I agree to do it the way it was originally done you need semi or solid rivets and a squeezer because the hole thru the rubber slot can the 3mm for top and bottom and makes a nice neat job.
Anyway having seals against no seals for me it a positive in wet weather. The driver side seal gets a hammering as a daily driver!.
Only time will tell how the system I used will hold up. Anyway prepared to do it your way if I have to.
Chris
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