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Thread: Series Land Rover door seal

  1. #1
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    Series Land Rover door seal

    I've been looking for a reasonable reproduction of the door seal material without success.

    Purchased some from Paddocks and threw it away because it was rubbish, not even close to the original.
    Tried a few extruders without success.

    You can buy complete seal sets with the steel strip inserted, pre-drilled & bent to shape but at $200 per door plus freight from the UK it's getting expensive.

    I don't like the idea of grinding back the aluminium and using Defender door seals so I'm looking for the correct profile so I can rivet into place as per original.

    Has anyone found a supplier in Australia and if so could you post a picture of the cross section, just to confirm its correct.

    I have just found a supplier that can apparently source it and await a sample, advert in Markets
    Series Land Rover door seal


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #2
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    I bought some from all4xfour it’s dam close and you place the metal inside i bought some aluminium it looks close yo original

    https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Front-D...-3-Aftermarket


    1960 series 2 143001010
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    06 discovery v6
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dgd69 View Post
    I bought some from all4xfour it’s dam close and you place the metal inside i bought some aluminium it looks close yo original

    https://www.allfourx4.com.au/Front-D...-3-Aftermarket

    Thanks,

    It does look very close.

    I'll see what this local rubber supplier comes up with, the price is cheaper but I'll have to wait and see what it actually looks like.....


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    For the metal strip - years ago I found the steel strip used for some packaging is ideal.......
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
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    I've attached a picture of the Paddocks seal material, some aftermarket seal I collected from somewhere and a piece of original.
    The aftermarket looks similar to the seal from Allfourx4
    I also found a picture of the seal you used to be able to get from Clark Rubber, this was different again, the slot for the strip was too big.

    I await a sample from the local company I've contacted, fingers crossed.


    Like John I'd looked at steel strapping (when boxes arrive at work) for the steel strip. While Googling I found this
    Signet's Own Zinc Coated Steel Strapping - 12mm x 250m

    This is the right width, a bit thicker and zinc coated ! Not sure I really need 250metres though.....


    Here's a punch for making the holes in the steel strip P112 - PPS-7 Hole Punch Set | Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse
    I inherited one of these from the Father-in-law.

    Just need to source some tubular rivets to fit the seal (pop rivets will do but they tend to crush the seal).
    Then I need a river squeezer.........



    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    " river squeezer........."

    I think you may mean "rivet squeezer"?
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    " river squeezer........."

    I think you may mean "rivet squeezer"?
    Fat fingers, aimed for the 't' and hit the 'r'.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #8
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    G'day Colin,

    Just read this thread and replied here.

    I bought my seal from Spectrum Rubber over 10 years ago (now Old auto rubber Australia) and lost them. Found them again last week and a job while in lock-down I thought.
    The profile is the same as the original (260.011) however, the slot for the metal strip is a 10mm x 2.5mm rectangle. The original metal strip is 1/2". No way could I get it thru. The mounting holes have to line up with the strip and impossible to remove 1.35mm from both sides for approx 8 metres of strip.
    In lock-down here, so no guillotining a 10mm strip of aluminum and also new strip would need marking out and drilled. Also would need hollow rivets and a squeezer as you say. Expensive. Big job!.

    I punched a 3mm hole thru the sponge rubber and used 3/16" ALL aluminum pop rivets thru original holes in channel. Easy job and so easy to replace sections. The rivets do pull in the rubber to give a wave effect however, it is a Series and my daily driver. (I could have made a cut in the rivet mandrel to weaken it however it's a lot of rivets.)

    The new seals sit higher so the door sits about 2mm out from the body when pulled in tight. So will set in after time I think.

    Interesting I started the D/S front section of the seal today and the steel insert was badly rusted and useless so pop rivets was a good decision for me.
    Also this seal is in 2 pieces because of the windscreen pivot and worked out how to fit them together so this join is waterproof by cutting an overlap profile in the bottom seal.
    I used my air rivet gun to pull the rivets. Again easy on the hand.

    A riveting job in Lock-down!!

    Chris

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Busted Syncro View Post
    G'day Colin,

    Just read this thread and replied here.

    I bought my seal from Spectrum Rubber over 10 years ago (now Old auto rubber Australia) and lost them. Found them again last week and a job while in lock-down I thought.
    The profile is the same as the original (260.011) however, the slot for the metal strip is a 10mm x 2.5mm rectangle. The original metal strip is 1/2". No way could I get it thru.

    Chris
    Chris,
    Sounds like the profile that was available from Clark Rubber, the slot was the wrong size.

    The company I've approached will only sell me a 50mtr roll so I want to be 110% sure it's the correct. or as close to correct as possible, profile. They haven't come up with a sample yet, maybe it was sent to them by Australia Post so I need to allow a few more weeks !

    There is another extruder I know in Melbourne that I can approach, problem is that if they still have the extrusion die there will be a setup charge.

    I have an air rivet gun but I want to use the correct semi-tubular rivets for any seals replaced on my Series I or II. I'm looking at making a rivet squeezing tool but have checked out 'aircraft' rivet squeezers from the US because at some point I want to re-rivet the roof onto the guttering on my shorty tropical roof. This needs to be done reasonably quickly before any sealant sets so a squeezer might be the best option.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  10. #10
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    G'day Colin,

    All noted. The seal I bought was the only stuff available at the time in Sydney. It is good quality and nice to work with.
    I cut a test piece to see how to do the the insert and pop rivets. However, the rivet head is 3/8" diameter so the top side of the slot needed a slightly smaller hole to get the head thru to the metal strip. I pulled a rivet with this setup and the seal pulled in with the slight wave.
    I agree to do it the way it was originally done you need semi or solid rivets and a squeezer because the hole thru the rubber slot can the 3mm for top and bottom and makes a nice neat job.

    Anyway having seals against no seals for me it a positive in wet weather. The driver side seal gets a hammering as a daily driver!.
    Only time will tell how the system I used will hold up. Anyway prepared to do it your way if I have to.

    Chris

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