Thread: Head Gasket.

I have just rebuilt a 3 bearing 2 1/4 engine, the head gasket was copper with a white material between the copper layers. After running it for a short time I checked head bolts and managed a 1/4 of a turn on each one. I have since retorqued the head three more times it is very strange, I spent 50 plus years as a heavy diesel mechanic and have never experienced this before usually a second retorque is good for the life of the engine.
Did you replace the internal “O” rings in the valve guides when you rebuilt the engine. I didn’t realise they were installed inside the guide during refurbishment but noticed them when I gave everything a clean prior to installing the valve for the final time.
If you do find a supplier of quality head gaskets please let us know I would be happy to strip the head off and replace what I have for peace of mind. The engine is running well but that gasket has me concerned.

one of the easiest places to get your parts from is

M.R. Automotive in redcliffe QLD

0732846688

Dunno if the three bearing engines are the same, but the diesel engine HGs fit most, and seem better than the copper.

'All Four x 4 Spares' have got a composite head gasket listed.
.W.

Thanks W.

Here is an update on copper head gasket, I have just covered 700 miles on the rebuild and the head gasket let go. I was 20 miles from home and limped it back on 2 cylinders not ideal but had no alternative. RACV won’t go to bush track but can give you the number of an off-road towing company read huge price.
So I limped home and pulled the motor apart, head gasket had failed between 3 an and 4 cylinders, I cleaned both the head and block ran a straight edge over them and cannot even gat light to shine under the straight edge. So I then ordered a new gasket from All4xfour it is a composite gasket I am hoping it will be a better quality replacement.
You will notice the copper gasket has indications of heat between all cylinders I am at a loss as to why, I cleaned the block and head thoroughly with high pressure water unit before assembly and had inhibitor in the system from new. I checked the temperature with a thermal gun 🔫 every time I drove the vehicle. I was even checking it as I drove along by checking the water temperature at the heater piping. The temperature never exceeded 70 centigrade at the heater and was never above 84 centigrade at the head.
I plan on filling the system with a cleaning agent and run it for a week or so before filling with inhibitor again. The radiator is new as is the water pump so I am a bit disappointed to say the least only time will tell.

I received a VRS set from Allfourx4 with a composite head gasket last Monday so this morning I started reassembling the motor. I called Allfourx4 regarding specific installation instructions as the kit does not come with torque settings. The head gasket seemed to be more solid during the torquing procedure and did not move after the final torque so I am feeling more positive with this setup as compared with the kit from England. Also I was impressed by the technical advice I received from Allfourx4 when I sort help.
I have since driven the vehicle 20 miles through bush roads to settle everything down and will check torquing tomorrow after I warm the engine up.

Ive seen this kind of failure when a build up of corrosion inside the head and block cause small pockets of trapped water, these boil and gass off through the coolant, causing localised hot spots.

Worst one IVe seen had a build up of scale that nearly completely blocked the flow between the cylinders top to bottom.