I'm in the process of stripping a Series 6-cylinder motor to salvage the camshaft.
I need to remove the distributor housing assembly (274084) which is the bit the distributor mounts in. I've removed the retaining bolt under the side cover but it doesn't want to move so I'm guessing it comes down to penetrating fluid & brute force ?
Heating won't do much as the aluminium expands more than the cast iron (plus getting the block heated up would take some ingenuity).
Maybe a freeze spray down inside the housing assembly ?
If anyone has a need for a bare 6-cyl block (boat anchor maybe ?) let me know.
There are other parts from the motor that I don't need.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
Doesnt take a lot I usually manage to get them with one of the butane torches that mounts on the disposable camp gas cans. When I want to heat the whole block I make a "heater tunnel" out of a couple of boxes or milk crates, an 1800w fan heater and an old wool blanker, horse blanket or fire blanket. Let it run for a few hours then if needed add additional heat to the spot I want with the butane torch or my 2400w hot air gun.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
You could always use the old way we did it, my foreman used to get me to pour sump oil on any old stump we had in the backyard of the workshop and set it alight then put the stripped down block on top. When it got cherry red he would weld up what ever was cracked or broken with an oxy acetylene set and cast iron rods. It could prove interesting for your neighbours but don’t get it so hot as to melt the aluminium insert.
Just a thought 😀 mate.
Managed to remove the distributor housing assembly.
There was an aborted attempt where I heated the block with 3 old kero blowlamps and cooled the aluminium housing. Took a long time to get heat into such a big lump.
Then put the thinking cap on and took a better look.
There is a 3/4" hole in the lower section, inserted a C45 steel bar (pneumatic cylinder piston rod) and, using packers, levered against part of the block. A quick squirt of bearing freeze down the inside, insert the bar & packers, hit the bar with a hide mallet a couple of times and out she came.
Camshaft now removed so the block will get scrapped.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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