No such thing as a cheap Defender.

[jplambs]

Hello All,

I bought a cheap defender from up near Cairns about 9 months ago and I have now learned a few things 1) There is no such thing as a cheap defender - if its cheap there is a reason and 2) don't buy a defender if its come from the tropics.

The front bearing in the power steering pump chewed itself out on Saturday night coming back from dinner in Kingston, my Mother was driving it at the time and given the circumstances did rather well. Anyhow I am ordering a new bearing and seal for it tomorrow but in the course of taking it off ( I removed the radiator and surrounds) and then taking the tray off I have discovered a number of problems.

When I bought the vehicle I knew that it had rust in the firewall (see pic of hinge and door post) but its a lot worse then I thought, there is also really bad rust holes behind the third cross member. At this stage I am thinking that it is going to need a new chassis and a new firewall. The door frames are really rusty as well.

On the positive side the cab is pretty good, except for the very back on the right at the bottom (see pic). All of the rivets are really good and there is no movement in any of the panels. The seats are also new-ish, they are from a TD5 and have no tears. The body work is a little rough in places but the engine was completely rebuilt about 10,000 kms ago and the drivetrain is great now that I've fixed it up, there's almost no backlash and all gears are smooth. It also has brand new suspension, bushes and shocks.

The radiator needs replacing as does the pipe that comes off the thermostat housing, when I took it off last night the rubber had been pushed over the holes in it and fastened with a jubilee clip, it worked but I can't risk putting it back now I know it is there.

So after all of this there are a couple of questions I want to ask people, 1) does anybody know of a good chassis and firewall that is available and should I go down this path, or 2) should I strip it down and sell the parts and try to buy another one in better condition.

The problem with the second is that its my first defender and I really love the thing. Regarding the first I was wondering if my best bet was to wait until a defender comes up with a blown engine and then just drop mine into it. I have to do something because I totalled my falcon on Friday (car verses a deer) so at the moment I don't have wheels. Now I have to decide which vehicle to fix.

Thanks in advance for any comments or help you all can offer.

[jplambs]

I forgot to add to the list that it has a brand new exhaust as well, that its a 1996 300TDi 110 single cab ute and that the more I undo the thing the more I find that the previous owner had an aversion to bolts, there were only two holding the bellhousing to the engine and about 4 missing from the left hand fender when I took it off this afternoon.

[Landy Smurf]

that is rusty we have to fix the rust in our defenders chassis soon its pretty bad

[SVX37]

Sorry to hear of your recent woes.

Your answers to your questions are easier answered if you ask yourself 2 questions:
1. How much time do you have?
2. How much money to you have?

As you are now car less, I would see if you could get a new chassis but I am pretty sure you will be waiting a while.

Either way, which ever way you choose to go, your Deefer will be off the road for a while I would suspect.

You may need to get a cheap runabout while you reconstruct the Deefer.

Best of luck.

[dullbird]

Mate give Rovacraft a bell...or PM Stuart on here, he runs RC Vic

they have Brand new chassis in there catalogue find out how much they are

the part number for 300tdi galvanised is DA2057
and for the TD5 galvanised the part number is KVD500730

obviously there not going to be as cheap as chips but I guess it depends on how much you saved on your cheap defender.....by buying one might make it the same proce defender as everyone elses, but fitting a gal chassis I would of though would command a little bit more money on resale

Have a galvanised chassis it will be fit and forget and will last you a lift time..

[Rangier Rover]

You have purchased your self a great donor for a project
I assume you would have picked it up for what the running gear is worth.
You now need to find a "high roller" that has worn out, had a light roll etc but not from the coast!

[jplambs]

Thanks for your comments, I think I might see if I can get a few parts to get her back on the road for now (radiator, etc), I'll need those in the long run anyway.

I'll give them a call Dullbird, I had planned on sandblasting the current chassis before getting it hotdipped so if I have to replace it a pre gal one would be great. On a bright note to I think it would be great fun stripping it right down and then rebuilding from the ground up. Maybe I could replace a few of the bolts along the way.

The defender cost me 5200 plus 800 to get it down from Queensland, I was told at the time that a reco 300tdi was worth about 5000 so the vehicle was worth it.

I'm a little short on cash at the moment as I'm looking for a job so if I can avoid buying yet another car that would be great, it really does tick me off when I have to spend money on the falcon - it would be much better spent on the fender.

While I'm asking questions, if I was to get a damaged TD5 how different are the engine mounts? Can the change in mounts position be done by a home mechanic? And does anybody know the legalities of putting a new chassis in to a vehicle?

Thanks again, Jonathan.

[lardy]

Richards Chassis Land Rover chassis manufacturer, LandRover
or Marsland Chassis - Land Rover 110
or Land Rover Chassis - 110" Replacement Chassis Options and Pricing

There are some specialist chassis builders in the U.k. and the last one in the list will do bespoke alterations at very good money.
I would not touch one from rovacraft with yours or anyone elses for that matter, It may work out to be the same-ish kinda cash (couriered to your door fedex are good uk-aus) but you can't beat getting one fresh from the Manufacturer.
As for bulkheads I would look at John Craddocks or Simmonites I have dealt with both and Craddocks are consumate pro's,
You may be on a sticky wicket when it comes too buying a new bulkhead I have just done mine and apparently because a lot of parts dealers in the U.k. were undercutting L.R.'s recommended (or artificially inflated ) retail price Land Rover have stopped the flow of bulkheads out the factory, It is now pretty dry of New bulkheads apparently.
I would look at the ebay u.k. selection there are some cracking Td5 ones for good money.
Regards Andy.
P.s. have just done my Bulkhead is a piece of **** but i don't want to do one next week.
I have a how too on here have a butchers ...Also are you sure that your chassis is actually totalled as you can buy parts to replace such as outriggers and crossmembers from Land Rover (crossmembers need a jig but)

P.p.s. You can re weld the mounts for the engine and gearbox if you have the savvy but if your welds are crap or you don't have the experience i wouldn't do it in all honesty....personally before you chuck the baby out with the bathwater get under the landy wirebrush the chassis and find out what you have, if it's that frail i wouldn't shot blast it or you might just be left with the loom and an indicator lens...And for the bulkhead get some close ups of the main areas of rot it may be savable

[dullbird]

why not rovacraft?

[lardy]

Lamby i just looked at your pictures : the first one is of the bulkhead where it kicks out before the footwells that can be cut out and a repair panel put in.
Is the second one of an outrigger or the chassis ? if an outrigger that is a cut off and weld replacement.
I can't identify picture 3
4 looks like the A post which is also a replacement part it joins above the footwells with a weld and is folded against another sheet again a replacement part but i would buy the footwells you look like you need em.
The last is the crossmember if its under the gearbox you should be able to unbolt it or grind it off and replace.