Re-wiring 2a issues

[korg20000bc]

I'm in the process of rewiring my 1968 2A. I bought the appropriate wiring harness.

I'm encountering some problems and would appreciate any advice.
The loom has instructions for connection to the ammeter... Ain't got none. Should that wiring be omitted or rerouted to the temp guage or somewhere else?

Thanks in advance.

[d@rk51d3]

Was it taken out of the cluster on later models?

Normally it's with the fuel gauge etc. Next to the speedo

[JDNSW]

Sounds as if you have the wrong harness. There was a major (well, relatively) change in the wiring in 1967, coinciding with the change to negative earth. If it is a 1968, it should not have an ammeter, and the wiring harness should not call for one. And the harness should include wiring for the temperature gauge and voltage stabiliser, neither of which existed on the earlier model. There is a slight possibility that the harness may have been designed to be usable in both before and after systems. If this is the case, there should be instructions what to do. I would contact the supplier.

John

[korg20000bc]

And that's just what I just did.

The supplier seemed very surprised that the negative earth 1968 Land Rover had not ammeter and said to make the connections join without the ammeter in between.

But there is nothing on the instructions regarding the temperature gauge and voltage stabiliser either...


Just because I'm dense and need help- what's the difference between the voltage stabiliser and the voltage regulator? Mine originally has a two clip regulator but its not required with the 15 ACR alternator, right?

This is what mine originally looked like:


I'm getting a little confused

[drifter]

The voltage stabiliser is a small device that sits behind the dash. It's sole purpose is to provide a stabilised ~10V feed for the temp and fuel gauges.

There are two different kinds (to my knowledge).

One is a device that is attached to earth (the back of the speedo or the bulkhead and it has 4 tags on it - 2 are 12V inputs and the other 2 are 10V outputs - one to each gauge.

The other is a device with 2 tags on it - one earth, one 12V input and one 10V output.

I have both

That voltage regulator you are showing in your picture is the external regulator of an alternator.

[korg20000bc]

The voltage stabiliser is a small device that sits behind the dash. It's sole purpose is to provide a stabilised ~10V feed for the temp and fuel gauges.

There are two different kinds (to my knowledge).

One is a device that is attached to earth (the back of the speedo or the bulkhead and it has 4 tags on it - 2 are 12V inputs and the other 2 are 10V outputs - one to each gauge.

The other is a device with 2 tags on it - one earth, one 12V input and one 10V output.

I have both

That voltage regulator you are showing in your picture is the external regulator of an alternator.

Thanks, you're helping me.
So this:

is the voltage regulator for the instruments? The connector tags are labled:
C1 (two tags) C2 (one Tag) and W1 (one tag). Would anyone mind telling me what is what?

Also, the external alternator regulator on the driver's side of the bulkhead (pictured above) is in the position of the Voltage Regulator Box in my workshop manual. I can only see this box as represented with 4 or more connector tabs in the manual but mine only has 2. If I was to use the external regulator and an alternator how would the wiring be arranged?

Really grateful for any advice.

[RobHay]

I would have thought that if you have a alternator than the regulator is built-in....unless you have a real early alternator........then the external regulator is redundent

[korg20000bc]

I would have thought that if you have a alternator than the regulator is built-in....unless you have a real early alternator........then the external regulator is redundent

Yes, I have the option of putting the old, original alternator without regulator (which I'd probably prefer to use for originality sake) or a new one with integral regulator.

[JDNSW]

Yes, I have the option of putting the old, original alternator without regulator (which I'd probably prefer to use for originality sake) or a new one with integral regulator.

The 1968 2a, as it is a four, originally had a generator with a separate regulator mounted on the bulkhead where there are three threaded holes near the clutch master cylinder and next to the fuse block. An alternator was optional (standard on the six) but I have never seen an original one on a four. So it is very unlikely that the alternator without a regulator is the original. If it is, it will be a Lucas 11AC. The easiest alternator to fit is the Lucas 16ACR off a Series 3, but there will be others.

John

[drifter]

Thanks, you're helping me.
So this:

is the voltage regulator for the instruments? The connector tags are labled:
C1 (two tags) C2 (one Tag) and W1 (one tag). Would anyone mind telling me what is what?

Also, the external alternator regulator on the driver's side of the bulkhead (pictured above) is in the position of the Voltage Regulator Box in my workshop manual. I can only see this box as represented with 4 or more connector tabs in the manual but mine only has 2. If I was to use the external regulator and an alternator how would the wiring be arranged?

Really grateful for any advice.

er - nope - that pic shows a Lucas 6RA - it is a relay:
Electrical Components

(434 Lucas 6RA/SRB111 relay. 12 volt 20 amp. suitable for horns, lighting, etc. push-on terminals.)

What you may be looking for (if, indeed, your car has one) will have tags labelled ( B ) & ( I ) or similar. My 67 2a didn't have one, my 71 2a does.

If you don't have one, don't sweat it - your fuel tank sender and fuel & temp gauges won't need it.

As for the external regulator - my 67 2a had a Lucas Voltage Regulator in the position John describes - and my 71 2a has a 4 pin voltage regulator in the exact place your vehicle has one. (I have a small alternator, too).

To be perfectly frank, if it was me doing it, I would be replacing the alternator with one that has an internal voltage regulator and re-wiring things - but you have already purchased your loom.

How many wires does your loom have for the voltage regulator? Are they labeled:

A1 A F D E ?

If so, it looks like they may have sold you the loom for a dynamo, not alternator.

Mine is a botch job that was done by an electrician somewhere - way before I bought it. The Voltage regulator is a strange one that I found somewhere in an MG manual - and have now lost it

Nevermind - an auto sparkie should be able to show you how to modify your wires for an external regulator - or, even better, how to wire it if you swap to an internally regulated alternator.

Or someone on here may be able to help further.