Help identifying wiring please.

[shining]

Hi Brains Trust,

I was diagnosing a faulty horn today. I found the following wiring. The vehicle seems stock standard in all respects and while this is an addition I am wondering if it is for the local market. It wires into both headlight connectors (possibly one relay for each headlight). I can't work out what it does (after removing the inline fuse [7.5A]).

The tube pictured I found in the battery box as well. The end shown was not connected to anything and it seems to come from behind the fuse box.

[clubagreenie]

Can't help with the tube but the wiring looks like it's an upgrade for the headlights. If it was dealer fitted then I'd be removing it, then repeatedly beating the dealer fitter around the head with it while saying "You're not an animal you're an animal chin". That should fix that problem.

Is the third pic the underside of the relays or is it where the relays connect back into the main harness? If it's the latter then they have kept the original wiring. Thats ok as long as you don't upgrade the globes but will give better voltage to the originals.

If each relay has 5 wires coming from it then they are operating both low & high, powered to low beam when turned on and changing over when switched. There will be an input from the battery, which at least they've fused. An input from the switch which it looks like they've cut into (the blue/white if LR have kept to original wiring colors (on that basis the other input would be blue/red)), this will feed out and into the same color to power out to the lights.

[shining]

Thanks Clubba.
The third pic is the connection at the rear of the RHS headlight. It just looks spliced and taped. The wiring runs from there to to the LHS headlight and similarly connected. It is part of the same loom that runs back to the relays. The replacement "loom" between the lights is tape wound all the way. I didn't try high beam when I was testing (d'oh), but the the inline fuse removed I couldn't fault any operation so I suppose it is probably highbeam.
I also worked out that with the bullbar there isn't enough room to remove the headlight module without dropping the bar (ARB winchbar).

[clubagreenie]

I remember reading a D4 bar thread and they have the same problem, not removing the lights. If I recall correctly, you can remove the platic surround off the back of the light and it'll come out.

As for the wiring. sounds like they have cut into and reused the original wiring and just added relays. Does each relay have 4 or 5 wires? Just trying to work out if they are trying to power high only or high & low.

My suggestion (depending on how good you are with soldering) is to return it to normal and get a complete upgrade loom from Tim at Traxide. Not only will it look better but will be completely plug and play, so you can return to normal if selling. plus wil be larger wiring so will support higher wattage globes plus he also has a plug in driving light harness to match if required.

[kingo]

Hi Shining

If you are referring to the 2 relays shown in one of the pics and I noticed you mention you have an ARB bullbar, they are for the additional indicator lights on the bullbar. I've just had an ARB bullbar fitted and they have installed relays in the same spot and they can be heard clicking when the doors are locked, ie indicators flashing.

[clubagreenie]

You mean you oay upwards of $2k for a bulbar and thats their standard of wiring?

Oh well I once saw a Rangie that had continuosly exploding airbags because SCR wired the phone power and earth into the airbag circuit. All it took was for someone to call and bang.

[RichardK]

Hi Shining

If you are referring to the 2 relays shown in one of the pics and I noticed you mention you have an ARB bullbar, they are for the additional indicator lights on the bullbar. I've just had an ARB bullbar fitted and they have installed relays in the same spot and they can be heard clicking when the doors are locked, ie indicators flashing.

That's what I installed also for the parking and indicator lights for my ARB bar.

The first pic looks like the battery drain tube.

[CaverD3]

Hi Shining

If you are referring to the 2 relays shown in one of the pics and I noticed you mention you have an ARB bullbar, they are for the additional indicator lights on the bullbar. I've just had an ARB bullbar fitted and they have installed relays in the same spot and they can be heard clicking when the doors are locked, ie indicators flashing.

That's what I installed also for the parking and indicator lights for my ARB bar.

The first pic looks like the battery drain tube.

As said above. The bars need relays or the indicators flicker. ARB Northside failed to put them on mine and it caused issues.

And check if you have a hole on the end of the battery for the drain tube.

[shining]

Thanks for the replies. You guys are great.
I hadn't noticed the wiring previously and I installed a dual battery and had been over the battery compartment a few months back.
I have done a bit of soldering and I will have a closer look at the connections tomorrow but it has to go back to the fitter to have the bar adjusted. They do lots of electrical options and should be able to do a good job. The RHS is OK but the LHS is about 5mm too high and 5mm to close to get the grille off and back on.

Happy New Year