Hot Puma

[santorini110]

hey, does anyone know why, my '09 110, gets so hot inside? when driving with the window open, the heat coming from the seat box is incredible....

The rear of the seat box heats up even with the windows closed...

Is this normal?

Antoher thing is a warning to all those puma owners out there. Your clutch slave cylinder is INSIDE the bell housing, so if it leaks, out comes the gear box!! There is a plastic bleed nipple on the top of the bell housing on the passenger side, it has a rubber dust cover over it and is not easy to find unless you know where to look and what to look for. Just in case anyone is caught without clutch fluid in the middle of now where as I was.

[Drover]

Yeah, it's normal.

If you want to improve it here is what I did.

1/ lined the underneath the floor, seat box and transmission tunnel with a heat protective mat. See link.

Car Turbo Exhaust Muffler Insulation Heat Shield Mat | eBay

2/ Wrapped the engine pipe from below the turbo to the join at the centre pipe with a ceramic heat wrap.

Now it is very good stays nice and cool. Well worth doing makes it a lot nicer to be in during summer.

[Symo]

D'day Drover
I have been thinking of doing something along those linesfor ages but not sure the best way forward. I have a mulgo centre box and theheat was so bad that one day towing a camper uphill that my UHF main box thatwas mounted in the mulgo centre cubby fried… Could have grilled steak on it.
Super Crap has some aluminium looking sheets of rippledmetal (looks like the stuff behind the turbo) for sale at about $50 a sheet.And you need to make up some mounting hardware / standoffs. It would becomplicated.
This adhesive stuff looks ok but I wonder how long term itis - the bottom of my car is pretty dirty and muddy in spots (must look for afew deep rivers to cross to give it a good clean) . I give it a blast underthere at carlovers every time I wash it but don’t get under on my back to giveit an upclose spray. So I would need to make sure its clean enough for good adhesion– maybe alcohol wipe it ( that means getunder the car with some JD and a straw, drink alcohol while I wipe it ) . I fearthat once a corner lifts the next river crossing - bog hole etc will rip it all off.
Also, at 110 x 99cm how much did you need?
Do you have Pics????

Thanks in Advance

[Drover]

Wait for a nice day, drag yourself under there with some hot soapy water and a sponge, then wash wash wash. Thats the only way I came up with. Some of the areas are tight and hard to get to but achievable.

I only used 1 sheet and that was all I needed. Target areas around the exhaust pipe and gear box. It has been on for 2 year now, that includes a Cape York trip. It is all still there and still doing its job. Some of the edges are a little lifted but its not going anywhere.

When you go over the gear box, I feed it over with one edge of the backing slightly peeled off, once it was in place I peeled the rest off. Be carefull you don't cover air-con drain, like I did and then wonder where the water was coming from on the passengers floor.

The ceramic wrap on the engine pipe gives the greater benifit of the two, but together the difference is terrific.

[Drover]

[Symo]

Thanks for the pics Drover.

Thats the plan then - wait for a warm day and get under there and into it. You say the exhast lagging made the biggest impact.... hmmm shall get me some of that stuff too

Thats one of the summer jobs along with a few other tinkerings i have planned.

Cheers

[Michael2]

I found on my last road trip that with the windows shut the A/C tried it's best to cool the car.

BUT, as soon as the windows opened, then hot air started to be sucked through the seat box - some kind of venturi effect I'm guessing.

Shut the windows again, and the stream of air from the seat box stopped.

I've since invested in the Exmoor / Wright matting.

[Quigley]

Hi Santorini 110,
When I finally got to check the clutch fluid level in my master cylinder I found it was very black and down by about three quarters of an inch. The difficulty of getting to the cap under the wiring harness kept putting me off looking. I topped it up and went looking for the slave cylinder only to find that all I could locate was a bleed screw as you have described. I check regularly now and have not had the level go down and so stopped the quest for the missing slave cylinder. Your statement that it is in fact inside the housing was what I suspected and feared. Wow.
Out of interest I note you are from Cairns. I was in Cairns in May of 2009 and made the mistake of walking past Trinity Landrover. They had two new Defenders and were so great to deal with that I purchased my white one from them and they transported it down to me in Gympie and it arrived on 2nd June,2009. They continue to follow up with me more than three years later. and they and the car have been just great. Did you also purchase from them? My car number is 776888 and if so. yours may well be a close relation.

[Tomo]

Yeah, it's normal.

If you want to improve it here is what I did.


2/ Wrapped the engine pipe from below the turbo to the join at the centre pipe with a ceramic heat wrap.

Now it is very good stays nice and cool. Well worth doing makes it a lot nicer to be in during summer.

Hi Drover
Where did you get the ceramic wrap from?
I used the stuff below in the link, however the heat reduction very minimal....
I installed a decat pipe and centre muffler removal straight thru pipe and wrapped all the way to the end of the straight thru section
I might not have overlapped it enough......
I have not lined the panels from underneath yet......

Magma Wrap --- Thermal Velocity Australia | Hi-Performance Exhaust Wraps and Heat Shields

[Drover]

Hey Tomo,

Not sure what brand but it was a "ceramic weave" tape. I picked it up at the local auto spares place. Probably about 2 - 3 mm thick. Cost about $70

I over lapped it by half each wind , so effectively it is two layers.

Cheers