D3 owner sneaking in...with D1 Questions

[rb30gtr]

Hi All,

I am looking for a bush beast as damaging the D3 really isn't an option.

And I have zero knowledge of the D1's and am pretty keen on sticking with LR as my brand!

So questions are,
What is the best engine/gearbox combo?

• 200tdi
• 300tdi
• 3.5v8
• 3.9v8

And with manual or auto?

What should I be looking for with body and suspension raised D1's?
Body lifts need anything specific, or up to say 2.5 inch's just need the spacers?

To keep good flex in the suspension what shock lengths do they need? Trailing/leading arms? what about drop boxes etc?

Looking to spend under 10, and would love to get away with spending 5 as it will be purely for the rocks/mud/bush and camping etc. I'll keep the D3 for the highway and touring when it comes time.

What do the D1's climb like? Did rear diff's come as LSD, or are lockers a necessity?

And what are axle strengths like? and all driveling?

Any help would be very greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Ben

[loanrangie]

If its just for local bush bashing i would go a 94+ V8, cheap as chips to buy and have either the ZF or R380 manual.
No lsd ever fitted to any LR product (this era at least ), 2" lift is the norm then add body lift if going to 35" tyres. Front arms you can get cranked or aftermarket but not required unless going for large rubber, rear arms same as fronts.
Long soft springs and suitable shocks will give good articulation, you dont need to do massive mods to make a D1 capable.
Axles will last unless you drive it like its a toyosan but cheapest upgrade is fitting a pair of LC80 F&R diffs.

[rb30gtr]

If its just for local bush bashing i would go a 94+ V8, cheap as chips to buy and have either the ZF or R380 manual.
No lsd ever fitted to any LR product (this era at least ), 2" lift is the norm then add body lift if going to 35" tyres. Front arms you can get cranked or aftermarket but not required unless going for large rubber, rear arms same as fronts.
Long soft springs and suitable shocks will give good articulation, you dont need to do massive mods to make a D1 capable.
Axles will last unless you drive it like its a toyosan but cheapest upgrade is fitting a pair of LC80 F&R diffs.

Brilliant, thanks!
My aim is to get to 35" tyres.

Why 94+?

[loanrangie]

3.9 instead of 3.5 and 300TDI instead of 200TDI, better dash and interior, R380 instead of LT77 5spd box, 24 spline axles instead of 10 spline plus other cosmetic changes.

[B92 8NW]

I recently picked up a 1995 V8 manual for $1000 with 149,000 on the clock.

It's a little rough, but it was $1000 and needed only a leak fixed and exhaust for RWC. Even the brakes are like dynamite compared to my "good car" 1997 Tdi and passed the decel test. I bought it for parts initially but it'll make a good bush car.

Only issue I have no idea what engine is in it. It's a replacement and the eng number points to a 3.5, but its got 3.9 on the plenum and is a hotwire injection with serpentine belt. Doesn't bother me as it runs well bar some tappet noise... and the whole shebang was $1k

[sobloodyobvious]

If its just for local bush bashing i would go a 94+ V8, cheap as chips to buy and have either the ZF or R380 manual.
No lsd ever fitted to any LR product (this era at least ), 2" lift is the norm then add body lift if going to 35" tyres. Front arms you can get cranked or aftermarket but not required unless going for large rubber, rear arms same as fronts.
Long soft springs and suitable shocks will give good articulation, you dont need to do massive mods to make a D1 capable.
Axles will last unless you drive it like its a toyosan but cheapest upgrade is fitting a pair of LC80 F&R diffs.

Can you tell me more about fitting the LC80 diffs? Benefits? Is it a suitable mod for 300tdi?

[rb30gtr]

I recently picked up a 1995 V8 manual for $1000 with 149,000 on the clock.

It's a little rough, but it was $1000 and needed only a leak fixed and exhaust for RWC. Even the brakes are like dynamite compared to my "good car" 1997 Tdi and passed the decel test. I bought it for parts initially but it'll make a good bush car.

Only issue I have no idea what engine is in it. It's a replacement and the eng number points to a 3.5, but its got 3.9 on the plenum and is a hotwire injection with serpentine belt. Doesn't bother me as it runs well bar some tappet noise... and the whole shebang was $1k

That is a bloody score!
I have priced a good lift, lockers and tryes. So If I could get an el cheapo like that I'd be smack on the 5 grand mark.

What about bobbing the rear quarters, any of you lad's gone down that route?

[discoverybob]

Hi, if you are interested, I have a 6/98 Discovery S1 S model for sale at $6000 with Vic rego, done 223,000k`s, only 1 airbag, no ABS, no sunroofs, has 3.9V8, auto, ARB rear air locker, brand new 245/75/16 Bridgestone D674 m/t x5 on alloys, excellent paint, rust free body, cloth interior in excellent condition,xrox winch bulbar, UHF, side rails wired up for dual battery system, 2'' suspension, camel cut, plus more. Welcome to call me via pm anytime. Sorry for the intrusion. Asking $6500. ono.

[Robmacca]

Can you tell me more about fitting the LC80 diffs? Benefits? Is it a suitable mod for 300tdi?

x2.... What mods are req'd to install these.... u would obviously need to modify where the springs sit, etc...

[Corgie Carrier]

Spring mounts, A frame mount point and the brake lines are the only mods required. I used a later model master cylinder with only two lines, instead of four to make it easier.

I have just fitted a GQ front diff and a LC80 series rear diff to a 94 Disco using the GQ and LC trailing arms. I figured it was cheaper than paying for a gear set, stronger axles and centre for a LR diff.

Neale