I need to make an injection pump locking tool

[Jode]

as the prices for these (around £125 ) are driving me to distraction. Can anyone send me a drawing or scanned picture of the retaining plate (ERR2216)? I've googled this without result.

If you have an ERR2216 laying about your workshop plus access to a scanner, perhaps you would kindly place it face down on your scanner, scan it, and then indicate the measured distance between the centres of two of its holes. I could then use your image plus measurement to faschion a locking tool at rather less than the LR tool costs!

Thanks.

[Blknight.aus]

im a little confused. the cam retaining plate has nothing to do with timing the pump.....

the part number is the cam shaft retaining plate.. (quick google) you can just trace it up by centering a card on the cam cutting the relief for the first lip on the front of the cam and then cutting the outside to suit the block and then drill it to match. at anyrate they can be had for about $5-10 from EB or various UK suppliers + shipping. from memory its about 5mm in thickness and you need to surface finish the camshaft side.

heres a site with a break down image on ithttp://landrover.shukersparts.co.uk/plate-camshaft-pulley-retaining-err2216.html


given that you're chasing a tdi300 cam retainer Im assuming you need the timing tool for doing the timing belt... and not the pump to pully boss aligning tools

check http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ming-belt.html
down the bottom has what you need to know for the timing pins.

the cam wheel only fits the cam shaft in one position and it has timing marks on the wheel there is a female threaded riser with a ridge on it that is the line up post for the cam wheel to time the camshaft. (picture #3 in post #4 of the above link)

post # 9 has a couple of helpful hints if you cant get to see straight onto the cam wheels because its still installed and you have the front of the vehicle still in one piece.

Hope thats what you were after.

[roverrescue]

I assume you dont mean this LR special tool:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...-12-045-a.html

Steve

[Jode]

I assume you dont mean this LR special tool:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...-12-045-a.html

Steve

Steve -
That article is what got me going in this direction. I need to remove the dip, and it seems like less work to fix the dip pulley to the front timing case by using the LR tool than having to remove the belt etc. - but the LR tool costs silly money. So I figured if someone had one of these

Attachment 74236

laying on their workbench and would lay it on their scanner and scan it, a PDF of that would be a true-scale piccie of the face of the dip pulley timing slot/bolt locations. It should be an easy matter to make up a tool from that pattern.

[Jode]

im a little confused. the cam retaining plate has nothing to do with timing the pump.....

the part number is the cam shaft retaining plate.. (quick google) you can just trace it up by centering a card on the cam cutting the relief for the first lip on the front of the cam and then cutting the outside to suit the block and then drill it to match. at anyrate they can be had for about $5-10 from EB or various UK suppliers + shipping. from memory its about 5mm in thickness and you need to surface finish the camshaft side.

heres a site with a break down image on ithttp://landrover.shukersparts.co.uk/plate-camshaft-pulley-retaining-err2216.html


given that you're chasing a tdi300 cam retainer Im assuming you need the timing tool for doing the timing belt... and not the pump to pully boss aligning tools

check http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ming-belt.html
down the bottom has what you need to know for the timing pins.

the cam wheel only fits the cam shaft in one position and it has timing marks on the wheel there is a female threaded riser with a ridge on it that is the line up post for the cam wheel to time the camshaft. (picture #3 in post #4 of the above link)

post # 9 has a couple of helpful hints if you cant get to see straight onto the cam wheels because its still installed and you have the front of the vehicle still in one piece.

Hope thats what you were after.

Dave -
My post wasn't very clear - what I want to do is make up a replacement for this LR tool:

Attachment 74237

I can buy the retaining plate for about £1.50 from LR Direct (from whom I'm about to other some other bits) but it would be quicker if someone had one laying about that they were willing to lay on their scanner and scan. The retaining plate piccie will give me the correct locations for the timing tool cut-out as well as the bolt positions; then I'll just need to cut out a suitable size of something flat (I'm thinking of using an old CD case), glue (since I'm thinking plastic, I might be able to use a bit of PVC pipe) a spacer to its back, measuring the offset from the face of the timing cover to the face of the retaining plate in-situ, and get some longer bolts to fit it to the dip pulley.

[roverrescue]

I would be hesitant to use a CD case for the retaining plate.
Once the FIP (fuel injection pump) is removed the plate and bolts are resisting the load of the timing belt.

Ill be out at the shed this arvo - I can get some measuremnts for you but you do realise that you can pull that plate off your engine and use it as your own template. This is what I did?

S

[Jode]

I would be hesitant to use a CD case for the retaining plate.
Once the FIP (fuel injection pump) is removed the plate and bolts are resisting the load of the timing belt.

Ill be out at the shed this arvo - I can get some measuremnts for you but you do realise that you can pull that plate off your engine and use it as your own template. This is what I did?

S

There's a thought. So I should slide in the timing tool, restrain the dip shaft nut and loosen the three plate keeper bolts, then remove the keeper bolts plus plate - correct?

[roverrescue]

Correct
set TDC and lock at flywheel
slide in locking pin to fuel pump (this needs to be a round bar with no lip as it will slide through the pulley and out the back) First time I did the job I used an 11/32 drill bit. Since then I have machined up a 316L stainless rod of appropriate diameter.

Remove three M10 bolts in the retaining plate

voila - you have a template

Use something substantial to make the locking plate it will be holding belt tension and pulley location (think 3-5mm steel or 6-10mm Ally) - ensure you drill the timing hole round but make the other two holes slotted as your timing location will vary by the slots on the plate depending on timing.
Slide locking plate over the pump locking pin and bolt two of the M10s to the pulley.

Now you are good to unbolt and then slide the pump out

S

[Jode]

Correct
set TDC and lock at flywheel
slide in locking pin to fuel pump (this needs to be a round bar with no lip as it will slide through the pulley and out the back) First time I did the job I used an 11/32 drill bit. Since then I have machined up a 316L stainless rod of appropriate diameter.

Remove three M10 bolts in the retaining plate

voila - you have a template

Use something substantial to make the locking plate it will be holding belt tension and pulley location (think 3-5mm steel or 6-10mm Ally) - ensure you drill the timing hole round but make the other two holes slotted as your timing location will vary by the slots on the plate depending on timing.
Slide locking plate over the pump locking pin and bolt two of the M10s to the pulley.

Now you are good to unbolt and then slide the pump out

S

Thanks, Steve, that'll be my weekend project as it's unlikely that I'll get a chance during the week. But I need to pull the pump off and take it back to the bloke that rebuilt it (actually, I rebuilt it but ended up putting the stator ring upside-down, so instead of having the local "expert" just set the timing he ended up stripping it and flipping the stator right-way-round), as the engine is smoking terribly! It's not stem seals and it's not timing, as I've done the timing twice and also checked the seals. So it must be the pump.

[roverrescue]

"the engine is smoking terribly!"

At what point is it smoking terribly - idle on full boost
before yanking the IP is it worth checking the simple things like aneroid first?

Is your timing set from the pin or using the more accurate plunger depth measurement at TDC?

Not saying it isnt a pooched pump re-build but worth checking things on engine first?

Steve