New Buyer Advice D3

[madderdog]

Hello Ladies and Gents

I'm a newbies here so please be gentle with me.

I am considering a Disco 3 as an additional car for the family. I work away at sea and want a second car for when I'm home. I want it to be able to get me off the beaten track but I'm not intending to be an aggressive off roader. I want to be able to tow and have the space inside. I want something that drives well and is not too agricultural.It strikes me that the Discovery seems to tick most of those boxes. It being a second car I can't afford to lavish too much money buying and maintaining. So I have a few questions if I may.

Is a 7- 10 year old Disco 3 going to be a reliable choice for this purpose or is it going to be a constant, expensive car to maintain?

Are there known issues that I need to look out for when checking out D3's? I had heard the compressor for the suspension can be an issue. (can this be detected on the test drive? (Anyother test drive tips in regard to D3's, gearbox etc)

Is there any major expensive service items / points that would be prudent to ensure have been completed?

Suspension choice. Is the variable height suspension on the D3 something to go for, or given the age, is the leaf sprung S model a better bet.Is there much difference in ride quality between the two?

Engine Choice. TDV6 are a little more expensive but more frugal, is it worth it if I'm not planning to do big K's?

What would be considered a lot of distance with regard to these engines (I know very dependent on how driven)?

I have heard it said that it is better to get a Disco that has been used for what it is intended and city bound cars tend to have more niggly problems because they are not put through there paces. Any truth in that?

I know I have asked a lot of questions but any guidance would be gratefully received.

[shanegtr]

I've had my 05 D3 for around 2 1/2 years now. So far overall its more expensive to maintain than my old 80 series landcruiser, but then again the cruiser was a fairly basic unit compared to the disco.

Compressor can get slow to after a while, havent had an issue with mine yet, but can be replaced with the newer AMK compressor which is apparently more reliable.

For the TDV6 Timing belt would be a big service item, due at 163,000km so if tyour looking at something around this age then either get one thats had it done or plan to get it done. Oil pump housing replacement at the same time is a wise move

There was no leaf sprung discos ever - coil spring yes I love the air suspension, best thing about the disco if you ask me. But I gues it depends on your planned usage. I dont think many of the coilers had the terrain response either, but they are cheaper to buy

Petrol or diesel, well I guess that comes down to your planned usage, I would seriously consider the petrol if doing shorter trips or not towing, touring etc..... (by the way if I had to go petrol I dont think I could resist the V8 )

[rar110]

If you're doing say 5000km or less per year then I would say as new/low km a D3 petrol SE (air suspension) as you can afford. The 4.4 v8 sounds good but stopped in 2006 I think. I would aim for a 2008/9 model which is the 4.0 6 cylinder petrol.

[sheerluck]

That's a very slow stutter you've got there!

[AnD3rew]

I have a 7 year old D3, I have maintained it well but used it well, including significant off-road. I would say it is reliable which doesn't mean it doesn't need stuff replaced from time to time, it does, things wear out and need replacing, I have replaced a compressor, the front wheel bearings, the lower control arm bushes twice, the sway bar bushes, the alternator. However the only one thing that has actually stopped me has been the alternator. You do need to maintain it and it it not outrageous but it is not cheap either.

But yes it ticks all your boxes, very comfortable on and off road, very capable on and off road.

I would definitely go diesel and air suspension which I believe makes this car the best it can be, but there are many happy coiler and petrol owners on here so if you find a good condition well maintained low km coiler or petrol in your price range then don't let that hold you back.

[carlschmid2002]

Get two keys that work and make sure the back up un lock in the passenger door works. Mine has locked me out a few times. V8 is awesome. Bushes in the control arms can be expensive. check the rubber boots on the air springs. Rear upper tail gate mechanism is designed by complete idiots. When it fails it is a pain to get it open especially when you have stuff in the back. There are plenty of youtube videos on how to fix things. Petrol models are very thirsty. V8 is awesome, did I say that already. Check if it has a metal transmission pan. If it is then it has been serviced. I love mine. Did I say the V8 is awesome.

[Disco-tastic]

Hello Ladies and Gents

hi madderdog. Welcome to the forum!

I'm a newbies here so please be gentle with me.

we're always gentle with new people

I am considering a Disco 3 as an additional car for the family. I work away at sea and want a second car for when I'm home. I want it to be able to get me off the beaten track but I'm not intending to be an aggressive off roader. I want to be able to tow and have the space inside. I want something that drives well and is not too agricultural.It strikes me that the Discovery seems to tick most of those boxes. It being a second car I can't afford to lavish too much money buying and maintaining. So I have a few questions if I may.

It ticks all those boxes and more...

Is a 7- 10 year old Disco 3 going to be a reliable choice for this purpose or is it going to be a constant, expensive car to maintain?

really depends on previous service history and year model. The later year model you can afford, the better. Also, though the petrol motors are thirstier they are considered to be cheaper to maintain.

Are there known issues that I need to look out for when checking out D3's? I had heard the compressor for the suspension can be an issue. (can this be detected on the test drive? (Anyother test drive tips in regard to D3's, gearbox etc)

The older models have a Hitachi compressor which can be a bit slow. There is a thermal cutout and the car should tell you if this (or any other fault) occurs.

The other main thing to check is the transmission. They are rated "for life" with no oil change, however popular consensus around here is that they should be serviced every 50k-100k km, depending on use. If required, a transmission rebuild is around $7k.

Is there any major expensive service items / points that would be prudent to ensure have been completed?

as previously mentioned, the timing belts on the diesel need to be done at 7 yrs or 168k km. Check that these are done as it is a big job and it seems to cost $2k+ for this service.

The diesel also has a possible problem with the oil pump housing, which can cause premature motor failure. There is a bunch of info on the forum (use the search function at the bottom of the page) but in short a new, stronger part os available, which should be installed when the timing belts are done. If buying a higher km car than it is prudent to check that the latest oil pump housing has been installed.

The petrols have a timing chain, with no major service items that I'm aware of.

There are also the front lower control arm rear bushes, which can wear out quickly. The bushes cost $80 each but i have been quoted $1500 by a mechanic to do four bushes (two each side) due to the labour involved. You can definitiely get it done cheaper (I got another quote for $500).

Suspension choice. Is the variable height suspension on the D3 something to go for, or given the age, is the leaf sprung S model a better bet.Is there much difference in ride quality between the two?

most people would say get an air suspended model - it has 3 different height settings, and you can install aftermarket gear to change this further (Llams, GOE rods etc). I have an air suspended model and it is bloody fantastic. Excellent ride, great clearance offroad... there's no way I'd get a coiler now.

The airbags themselves rarely have problems, but the compressor, as mentioned, may get tired. There is a "dryer" which takes moisture out of the air to protect the suspensions internal bits from corrosion, and this may need replacing at the age you're looking at (they're a few hundred bucks fitted).

Engine Choice. TDV6 are a little more expensive but more frugal, is it worth it if I'm not planning to do big K's?

if not planning to do big kms or tow heavy things, a petrol may be probably a better bet. Yes it is thirstier and that hurts at the pump, but it is cheaper to maintain with the only consumables being fuel, oil and spark plugs. No high pressure injectors, fuels pumps or turbos to worry about. That said the diesels are a good motor, they just need a bit more love and care

What would be considered a lot of distance with regard to these engines (I know very dependent on how driven)?

theres a few on here that have cars with 300km+ on them. If you're not planning to do many kms than 200k kms cars should be on your list - as always service history is important.

I have heard it said that it is better to get a Disco that has been used for what it is intended and city bound cars tend to have more niggly problems because they are not put through there paces. Any truth in that?

i havent heard that. Not sure if anyone else has. Just buy a properly serviced, nice example and it shouldn't matter

I know I have asked a lot of questions but any guidance would be gratefully received.

hope i have helped.

Also make sure to check out the FAQ in the D3/D4 section in The Pinnacles section of the forum. There is HEAPS of info there. There is also an FAQ on the transmission in the same area, and the search function at the bottom of the page will help you find things.

Cheers

Dan

[SBD4]

Excellent responses by everyone so far.

To emphasize the point already made on the oil pump on a 2.7L diesel, this issue results in catastrophic failure of the engine. Replacing engines in these vehicle is expensive. You need to make absolutely sure of the following:

• Is the vehicle you are considering one of those affected by the problem? Some say the issue is only up to MY2007 others say any 2.7D3 should be checked
• If the vehicle has had the timing belt done (needs doing at 168k km/7 years), the oil oil pump must be the new one with the additional webbing. If it has not been done, the engine is at at high risk - do not buy the car unless you are prepared to rectify the situation immediately.
• If the timing belt has not been done on it yet, then when you get it done make sure the mechanic replaces the oil pump as a part of the service, do not be tempted to ignore it to save on cost. Non LR repairers may not be aware of the issue(best to use one that knows the brand).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...-oil-pump.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...e-d3-tdv6.html
Other than that, the transmission is the other major cost component. If it has been serviced and or has had an easy life, you should be fine.

Get the newest low Km model you can afford with air suspension and features you like. You will love the vehicle.

[LRD414]

The thread Dan started when researching ended up with lots of good information too, so worth a read:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...age-d3-d4.html

Cheers,
Scott

[Disco-tastic]

Heres a high kay but apparently tidy petrol V6 in Vic

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/2008-LAND-R....c100408.m2460

I know its not something you can go check easily, but it gives you an idea of the price their fetching. You'd have to have a good LR mechanic check it over anyways, and there are a few of those in melbourne AFAIK.

Cheers

Dan