If it is a rear one then just fit a Salisbury and forget about ever touching it again. If you get a unit from a 1999 to 2002 110 it will already be set up with ABS. You will only then need to shorten your original tailshaft to suit.
Jc
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						Hi Guys,
My diff has been making a hell of a noise lately and the mechanic has said it needs to be rebuilt. Is there anything else I should be doing at the same time while the diff is getting rebuilt?
Is there any aftermarket kits or upgrades that would make sense to do while the diff is out?
Thanks heaps
Dan
If it is a rear one then just fit a Salisbury and forget about ever touching it again. If you get a unit from a 1999 to 2002 110 it will already be set up with ABS. You will only then need to shorten your original tailshaft to suit.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
If it is a 130 then you can use any sals from 1994 onward with discs.
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Only the TD5 extreme model in 1999 to 2002 had ABS. I had a non extreme TD5 with a salisbury which is now under my 130 and as fas as i can tell it has no redundant ABS bits or fittings. Moral of the story, best ask if it has ABS to be sure if you go down this route.
As for the OP, why not cough up some extra $$ for locker and axles. Plenty of options for the P38: ARB, Ashcroft, E locker, TJM, Detroit, chinese knock offs.
MLD
MLD
Current: (Diggy) MY10 D130 ute, locked F&R, air suspension and rolling on 35's.
Current: (but in need of TLC) 200tdi 110 ute & a 300tdi 110 ute.
Current: (Steed) MY11 Audi RS5 phantom black (the daily driver)
Gone: (Dorothy) MY99 TD5 D110
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Can you get a detroit for the p38? I thought you couldn't?
Still doesn't address the poor design of the diff pinion to crownwheel relationship. It is unsaveable.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
 Fossicker
					
					
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						This is exactly what I've been thinking about. I'll never sell this car so I want to make sure I do the best thing long term. Guess its time to start the research on this.
I assume that buying an ARB locker replaces my dodgy diff? Ive been told it could be close to $2,000 for the rebuild. Looking at the current prices of ARB lockers fitted I'm not paying much more? Unless they also would need to rebuild my current diff?
Thanks heaps everyone for your help.
lol........
Justin C is a big fan of the Salisbury diff and he is correct in saying and "never have to worry about it again"
Basically I only started doing diff rebuilds again on the Land Rover Defender from that late Defender TD5 onwards to the point now I keep a few diffs in stock rebuilt and ready to go.
The problem especially with the Defender TDCi (puma) is poor crown wheel and pinion lapping, poor setup, average bearings.
If you rebuild it quickly (after it starts to make a grown) you wont end up with two wear patterns. If you leave it too long you will need to replace the crown wheel and pinion as well as bearings. For anyone that rebuilds diffs once the housing is on the bench its easy to determine what needs doing.
Regards
Daz
Regards
Daz
I'm having a Harrop e-locker fitted to the rear differential today. I received a phone call saying the pinion bearings were shot and needed replacing. The diff has done only 28,000Km. That's just sad. I had no indication of any problem as the thing ran silently - the diff, not the rest of the boom box.
The local dealers had none in stock and was advised of a 2 week wait. Fortunately a dealer put me on to Ritters Automotive here in Melbourne who had them in stock. I hope to get the Defender back by this evening, hopefully running well.
I wonder what the front diff is like?
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