ZF 6HP automatic transmission metal sump pan - torque specs?

[twr7cx]

Anyone able to advise on the correct torque settings for the ZF 6HP automatic transmission metal sump pan - pan to box bolts, pan drain and fill plug? I assume if they are OE fitment on various BMW's etc. they would have a specified torque setting.

According to the D4 Workshop Manual I have here, with the standard plastic sump pan the torx screws torque setting is 8Nm. But I assume from the pictures I've seen there is a difference between the sealing setups - more of an o-ring on the plastic units and a gasket on the metal units - so that might not be correct when fitting the metal sump pan...?

EDIT:
According to 6 Speed Transmission with plastic oil pan fluid change procedure: Genuine ZF Parts it is 10Nm +/-1Nm with a tightening sequence but no details on the pans drain/fill plugs.
EDIT 2:
According to p 8/12 of this ZF document < https://www.zf.com/global/media/medi...t_50145_EN.pdf > it is 10Nm for the plastic pan and 12Nm for the steel with a specified tightening sequence. Pages 9/12 to 12/12 show different brands setups and their fill/drain plug torque settings - it specifies the hex size which could probably be used to figure out the correct one.

[DazzaTD5]

As you will need to use a 1/4 drive or something similar in the same small size, just as tight as you can get it. You wont be able to over do it.
pay particular attention to all the rear ones as this is where I have seen them leak.

Another note, if you look through some old posts you will see somewhere I have recommended a steel pan with a alloy/rubber gasket that wont ever leak.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Check out the Sonnax website, their detailed descriptions provide torque settings for the pan to housing as well as valve body bolts etc. Pan is 14Nm from memory. I used a 1/4 drive torque wrench rated from 5-25Nm (Teng tools). Got to all of them, the front ones are a hassle but doable.

No leaks if done this way and using Duraprene gasket.

[DiscoJeffster]

I rarely ever use a torque wrench. I must just be completely evil? I find selecting the correct sized 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 tool for the job ensures the correct torque is applied by hand. I find hands are a great indicator of tension. Internal to engines etc I always use torque and angle gauges as appropriate, but ancillaries I don’t bother. Some exceptions obviously

[twr7cx]

Check out the Sonnax website, their detailed descriptions provide torque settings for the pan to housing as well as valve body bolts etc.

Should be listed in the Tech Resources section on Sonnax ZF ZF6HP26 Transmission

[101RRS]

You cannot get a torque wrench into the front bolts any way - as mentioned just use a 1/4" drive and do it by feel - the real issue is getting to those front bolts - not if they are torqued exactly right.

[twr7cx]

You cannot get a torque wrench into the front bolts any way

Yet, I managed to get my small 3/8" torque wrench onto them just fine...

[DiscoClax]

L320 vs L319... Try and get at the front bolts in an L320 and you'll know what Garry is talking about. Unless you start drilling big holes in the crossmember...

[101RRS]

L320 vs L319... Try and get at the front bolts in an L320 and you'll know what Garry is talking about. Unless you start drilling big holes in the crossmember...

I didn't realise they were different at the front . I thought they were the same forward of the rear gearbox cross member and then aft of that, things were different due to the shorter wheel base (that is why the L320 is technically better offroad with the same tyres than the L319)

Well, well you learn something new every day - but yes if I have to do this job again (to change the filter) I will drill some holes in the front cross member - it already has enough holes in it as built and why they did not align all of them with the bolts is beyond me but some are close enough.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Yet, I managed to get my small 3/8" torque wrench onto them just fine...

Yep, that’s what I did, 3/8” torque wrench with T27 torx bit.

Just fits. Undoing is worse, if you undo too far, the ratchet wrench gets trapped between the pan and the cross member...

Sorry my previous post was incorrect, I stated a 1/4” torque wrench.

I’d be hesitant to start drilling holes in cross members, pretty sure they’re heat treated structural members, drilling extra holes could cause fatigue failure due to stress raisers caused by the holes.