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Thread: ZF6 gear box service and metal pan change over. On a D4

  1. #1
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    ZF6 gear box service and metal pan change over. On a D4

    Well I recon I am 2 thirds the way through doing the gear box service all going ok, accept I thought I was being clever by not removing the center brace which was fine I have been able to get the plastic pan out but I can’t get the metal pan in ahhh oh well take the brace out should go in easily and access to those bolts will be a lot easier also. I have flushed 8 litres of fluid though so far and it oil looks a lot better after the flush.
    So will update once I am finished and gone to a test drive.
    2010 D4 3litre twin turbo brand new motor 5km old on a 100,000km car. Kaymar rear bar, ARB front bar, Hannibal roof rack, Hella Predator Spot lights, long rand fuel tank, Traxide battery management. touring weapon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by coopers1969 View Post
    Well I recon I am 2 thirds the way through doing the gear box service all going ok, accept I thought I was being clever by not removing the center brace which was fine I have been able to get the plastic pan out but I can’t get the metal pan in ahhh oh well take the brace out should go in easily and access to those bolts will be a lot easier also. I have flushed 8 litres of fluid though so far and it oil looks a lot better after the flush.
    So will update once I am finished and gone to a test drive.
    Undo the rear bolt, lift the rear of the gearbox up and wedge a suitable socket in under the alloy mounting bracket. Bring the pan up 90 degree to normal, then turn into place. Another tip to avoid the filter from dropping down while maneuvering the pan into place is to completely dry all oil from the pickup gallery in the trans case, push filter into place and quickly fit pan.
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
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    Ok not sure what I have done but I am under the understanding. When the transmission gets to temp 35 degrees measure via a IIDTOOL undo the filler whole and continue to fill until it starts to dribble out. I was filling via the garden spray at the front of the car at first When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.
    2010 D4 3litre twin turbo brand new motor 5km old on a 100,000km car. Kaymar rear bar, ARB front bar, Hannibal roof rack, Hella Predator Spot lights, long rand fuel tank, Traxide battery management. touring weapon.

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    Was the engine running with the transmission in gear?
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    Quote Originally Posted by coopers1969 View Post
    When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.
    Did you turn the engine off to check the level? If so, that's why all the oil came out. You do the final filling and checking with it running...
    Also refit the fill plug while it's still running. Don't turn off until it's all sealed up or oil will come back out.

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    Coincidentally, I serviced my zf 6hp26 transmission (RRS) during last week.

    I followed this youtube link and shows you exactly what to do.
    YouTube
    I used BBS Faultmate MSV2 extreme with V1.33 that has the upgrade to monitor oil temp.

    Because I removed the valve/mechatronic assembly to changeout the seals, I needed to remove the rear crossmember and mount
    This made refitting the pan a breeze. Also used a rubber gasket this time. It sealed fist go unlike the fibre one I used last time
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by coopers1969 View Post
    Ok not sure what I have done but I am under the understanding. When the transmission gets to temp 35 degrees measure via a IIDTOOL undo the filler whole and continue to fill until it starts to dribble out. I was filling via the garden spray at the front of the car at first When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.

    You refill the sump without the engine running, initially. Takes about 3.5 l Vehicle must be level
    Put the fill plug in and start the engine (fill plug is on the rear RH side of housing not the large one in the metal pan)
    With the brakes on (dont move the wheels) cycle through the gears, reverse, N, Drive, then manually select as many gears as you can (I could only get to 3) 3 seconds in each position and return to PARK
    Let the temp rise at idle to about 30 to 40 ( it took me 15 min to get to 37 on a cool day)
    Remove filler plug and add oil till constant dribble ( I used a total of 6.8 l to get to this point)
    Replace plug
    Turn off engine

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    Exactly what Grappler said

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    Quote Originally Posted by coopers1969 View Post
    Ok not sure what I have done but I am under the understanding. When the transmission gets to temp 35 degrees measure via a IIDTOOL undo the filler whole and continue to fill until it starts to dribble out. I was filling via the garden spray at the front of the car at first When I went to check the level about 5 litres came out. Have I missed something or did I just over fill it.
    Just a point for discussion.....I wonder if this fluid loss could be due to the filter not being plugged into its housing properly

  10. #10
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    Dropping the cross member off and raising the transmission gives you enough clearance to get the pan on without pushing the filter out of the way. The torque converter holds a fair amount of fluid, thats why the engine has to be running to get the correct level in the transmission sump. Make doubly sure the connections to the cooler are pushed fully home, don't want them poppoing off while driving.

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