Thread: #137B 2A FC rebuild

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

Thanks Gav. Looking at it today there is definitely not enough room under the short bonnet to fit a conventional booster & MC, so a remote booster on the front discs circuit it will be.

So much to think through. Brakes, cooling, fuel system, power steering, seats.... Got to take small steps or it'll do my head in! Good fun, but I need more time for fun crap like this!

How did you end up doing the power steering on your 101? Electric and running the std box and linkages. I'm keen to get my front axle in so I can nut mine out. Got a D1 steering box here, to be swung around and mounted on the outside of the chassis rail with the input shaft facing forward, then use a defender steering column and through a couple of unis and a bevel box to get the steering shaft to the box.

I ditched the standard box as they are a known weak point in the 101 - about the only thing that is. I used a PS box from a Navara, mounted to a plate welding onto the chassis on an angle - strong and simple. The standard Navara Pitman arm picks up the 101's standard drag link with a taper adapter to match that up. A modified series 3 column then goes to a bevel box from a forward control people moved to change the direction of the steering 90 degrees and that meets straight into the PS box. Old steering relay is removed. Good think about it all is it can be taken back to factory manual steering in around 2 hours if needed, so apart from one plate welded in, nothing else is disturbed and the plate isn't in the way of anything else. Engineer liked it too - there's at least 4 x 101's running this style of PS in Australia that I know of.

Originally Posted by Homestar

I ditched the standard box as they are a known weak point in the 101 - about the only thing that is. I used a PS box from a Navara, mounted to a plate welding onto the chassis on an angle - strong and simple. The standard Navara Pitman arm picks up the 101's standard drag link with a taper adapter to match that up. A modified series 3 column then goes to a bevel box from a forward control people moved to change the direction of the steering 90 degrees and that meets straight into the PS box. Old steering relay is removed. Good think about it all is it can be taken back to factory manual steering in around 2 hours if needed, so apart from one plate welded in, nothing else is disturbed and the plate isn't in the way of anything else. Engineer liked it too - there's at least 4 x 101's running this style of PS in Australia that I know of.

Sounds similar to my plan. So a bevel box from something like a Hiace van? I didn't realise the vans had them.

At this stage I was going to leave the relay in the chassis. It's a ***** to remove and like you it would will mean that the std steering system is easy to reinstate if required.

I don't actually know what the bevel box was from but uses Toyota steering unis as I grabbed a couple of extras from a old Corona wreck but I think Camrys, etc all have the same ones - they were just easier to remove on the old banger that was there. Probably a large range of Japanese stuff uses the same splines...

Maybe a Tarago? I'll go take a look in the garage - I have another one I grabbed out of something in a mates yard that was written off a few years back - if it's suitable and I can find it, it's yours for the price of postage.

Good news is I found the box with all the steering stuff in and I'm pretty sure it's in there - bad news is it's right at the back of my parts shed buried under almost a complete series 3 (well all the parts to build one minus the panels and chassis).

I'll report back later - I'm going to go and do battle and sort a few things out. Just need to find a baseball bat to deal with some of the bigger critters that are likely to be in there - most 8 legged and larger than a bowling ball...

Survived! Have it right here - PM sent.

Got axles under it at last! Even if only temporarily until I confirm the pinion angles when I get the drivetrain and prop shafts in.

Cab temporarily placed to see how the wheel offset works.

Now to finish assembling the engine and gearbox so I can swing them in to position.

The wheels are temporary. Looking for 33-35" tyres but they can only be max 265 width to fit in the spare tyre position. All common tyre sizes this diameter seem to be 300mm+ width? It would have had 900r16s on it originally.

900 16’s pose a bit of an issue these days. Width wise the Michielin 255/100/16 would give you something usable although in 35” like what I ran on the 101 when I bought it, but there are dear as poison. The lack of viable options is why I widened my rims and went for the 285/75/16 I’m running now and built a rear wheel carrier.

Check out the thread that’s been running in the 101 forum for some time - 9.00 16 Tyres

Originally Posted by Homestar

900 16’s pose a bit of an issue these days. Width wise the Michielin 255/100/16 would give you something usable although in 35” like what I ran on the 101 when I bought it, but there are dear as poison. The lack of viable options is why I widened my rims and went for the 285/75/16 I’m running now and built a rear wheel carrier.

Check out the thread that’s been running in the 101 forum for some time - 9.00 16 Tyres

Yeh Gav I'm finding that. I want to run a conventional tray so don't want a rear mounted spare. Really trying to avoid having to hack in to the chassis & subframe to fit a wider tyre in to its original position. Another potential spot could be vertically in front of the head board, but this eats in to cab room or tray length...

I need to recalculate the gearing and see what tyre diameter I should be aiming for, for a target RPM at 100km/h. Given the OEM tyre sizes on the donor toyota and Isuzu, I may find 35" is too big anyway...
C