Reply With QuoteI will try and find another pump for you, as replacing that broken part would be way better than trying to weld up the old cast.
As long as the block is still ok.
Now where about,s did I bury that '54 block?
.
YarnMaster
SupporterI broke the pump
I should have taken more time and thought about it.
Remove the dizzie housing first by heating the block with 50/50 diesel petrol mix.
Did this twice a day apart tilting the block to enable diesel to be pooled in the cavity around the dizzy housing.
Once the pump is removed the shaft can be tapped with a copper hammer and the gear will push the housing out the top.
I then used a 3/4" alloy rod to tap out the remains of the pump housing. It came out quite easily and if I had waited the extra day I may not have broken the housing off.
The next step was try the CRC Freeze can but I wasnt due for a trip to town till next week.
Notice where the pump broke. I can find no use for those holes as there are no corresponding holes in the block for oil ways.
I will try to repair by welding or sleeving over the holes.
Keith
ForumSage
I will try and find another pump for you, as replacing that broken part would be way better than trying to weld up the old cast.
As long as the block is still ok.
Now where about,s did I bury that '54 block?
.
YarnMaster
SupporterThanks Arthur. BSFnut is bringing one to ABD tomorrow for me to look at. We dont know yet if its Siamese or Spreadbore.
Siamese shares with the 80" pt no 234310.
Spreadbore is 240651.
Though dont know what the difference is yet.
Keith
YarnMaster
SupporterSpoke to Collin ex A&T , he tells me the oil pump was used on other Rover motors & they used the lower holes to lock the oil pump in placeWe bought some Freeze Off made by Locktite but havn't tried it yet , will let you know when we do. Wayne
Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 2nd October 2012 at 10:17 AM. Reason: spelling = moyors to motors
YarnMaster
SupporterChassis time. Welded up some rust and after leaving the relay soaking in diesel for a week tried to pop it out. Came out all right, with the relay tube firmly attatched but.
Oh well, more welding.
OldBushie
i cant remember what the chassis looks like. but does it have an extra plate on the front crossmember?
and did they all have holes in the front of the front crossmember?
Super Moderator
Only if they had a capstan winch! (Or it was a 1954 capstan winch prepared chassis - Part No. 239861)Originally Posted by schmierer LR at singleton
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
YarnMaster
SupporterOne of the PO,s has welded a plate to the bottom of the Xmember. Probably a rust repair. I will leave it there.
As Diana said some came from the factory with tubed winch mounting holes.
YarnMaster
SupporterThe relay was also seized up. Pulled it to bits and found the shaft was a bit pitted. The fibre cones may be OK so cleaned up the tapers on the lathe to give a smooth surface again.
YarnMaster
SupporterHi Keith , Do you know the trick to resaaemble the cones & to compress the spring. You clamp one of the cones with a hose clip , drop the spring over the shaft then put a pin through the hole in the shaft . The pin needs to be longer than the diameter of the spring . Now rotate the spring so it winds down the pin, once its below the pin you can clamp the other cone with hose clamp, then wind the spring back so its siting against booth cones . Now remove the pin. you can now tap the shaft into the housing & the cones will slide out through the hose clips . You need to make sure one end cap is on before knocking the shaft in. Wayne
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