Thread: 1954 Royal Review 47160049

Put on a spare dizzie and the original 7 53 radiator and started it up.
Idles nicely but I cant get it to rev.
Seems to be not getting enough fuel although I stripped the carbie and rebuilt it all something seems not right.
I might swap it for the 1600 one off Tristan and see what happens.
Oil pressure seems a bit high for idle but unscrewing the adjuster makes no difference. Perhaps the ball is stuck.

I was checking out a 1949 80" the other day and spotted this, a wheel with the three posts for the hub caps.



There was only the one rim like that on the 80", someone had been there and scratched around looking for a part number --- doesn't look to be any there and the valve stem is in the middle of the scallop hole.

look carefully at where the posts are and you can see there are small flats stamped there.
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Originally Posted by 123rover50

Put on a spare dizzie and the original 7 53 radiator and started it up.
Idles nicely but I cant get it to rev.
Seems to be not getting enough fuel although I stripped the carbie and rebuilt it all something seems not right.
I might swap it for the 1600 one off Tristan and see what happens.
Oil pressure seems a bit high for idle but unscrewing the adjuster makes no difference. Perhaps the ball is stuck.

May be the gauge is not reading correct do you have another to try.
Is the dizzy cam siezed can you hear the weights rattle when you rock the cam. When I did up my dizzy the other day I was surprised it had all these felt wicks down in the bottom to soke in oil to lube different parts of the advance system. I made some new ones out a sheet of felt & put some floation grease on the spindle where the cam fits. The sliding plate had also seized stoping the vacume advance from working.
When I did my P3 I got he valve timing wrong & the motor would start & idle fine but wouldn't rev. ( Rover could have had a better way of setingthe valve timing ,like a couple of dots on the gears would be much better .)
I've also had the nut come loose on the neadle in the one of the diaphragms so the neadle stayed in the jet & the motor wouldn,t rev.

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Put on a spare dizzie and the original 7 53 radiator and started it up.
Idles nicely but I cant get it to rev.
Seems to be not getting enough fuel although I stripped the carbie and rebuilt it all something seems not right.
I might swap it for the 1600 one off Tristan and see what happens.
Oil pressure seems a bit high for idle but unscrewing the adjuster makes no difference. Perhaps the ball is stuck.

Check each of the parts one at a time on Tristan rather than moving them onto the Royal, that would be a lot easier to spot a problem if there are a couple to contend with.

If the butterfly is opening fully and the carby isn't letting the petrol through, it would be backfiring wildly with the engine at working temperature, so the problem most likely is a timing issue with the distributor advance retard mechanism not working as it should.

That's a worry with the oil pressure relief valve, I would have thought by undoing the setting on the relief valve, it would drop the displayed pressure on the gauge straight away so the valve could be stuck, don't suppose there could be a oil galley hole somewhere covered by a gasket or a couple of holes not aligned properly?

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Sucked on the dizzie and the diaphram holds vac OK.
While I was trying to rev it I rotated the dizzie back and forth and it made no difference.
Hope its not valve timing. I thought I was being careful about that.
Got to go to town today so wont be able to get back to it for a while.

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Sucked on the dizzie and the diaphram holds vac OK.
While I was trying to rev it I rotated the dizzie back and forth and it made no difference.
Hope its not valve timing. I thought I was being careful about that.
Got to go to town today so wont be able to get back to it for a while.

Check the mechanical advance mechanism first, lift the cap away grab the rotor button and twist it against the counterweight spring tension and let it go, it should return back to where you found it.

But doing what you have done with twisting the distributor body, does suggest that the mechanical advance mechanism isn't the problem. bummer!

What is the muffler like , it hasn't got too much back pressure. I do hope it's not the valve timing . I know what its like trying to do the valve timing on a IOE engine , I must have pulled the grill & radiator out of the P3 10 times ( about a 4 hr job) Rover never made a workshop manual for the P3 so I tryed using ^ cyl L/R , P4 , p5 , & a motor repair manual i found at a swap , all had different set ups. Arthur is rite your beter off puting the unknown parts into a vehicle thats known to be runing OK incase you have a couple of problems The other thing is make sure the points havn't closed up when you have new points with plastic rubbing blocks the rubbing block can wear & cause the points to close up very quickly when first fitted. Wayne

A few new chums reading this may benefit from an explanation of how to check for correct valve timing, so here goes.

Check the valve timing this way, remove both rocker covers ( there are two rocker covers in this case as this is for a side and overhead valve engine ) .

Take out #1 spark plug, turn motor over with your finger over the spark plug hole to find the compression stroke, then insert a piece of wire into that spark plug hole, move crankshaft back and forwards slightly to find exact top dead centre.

The rear ( #4 ) exhaust and inlet valves should be now be seen to be rocking at that point of top dead centre.

If you have a crank handle turning the motor over with only that #1 plug out, the compression will be felt on the other three cylinders so count off three of the compressions for those cylinders, taking note where the grip on the crankhandle is at the compression stroke on each of the cylinders with the plugs still in and then move the handle into that same position for #1, this is where you can finely set for the top dead centre using a rod or stiff wire.
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