Thread: HD Drag Link Question

A good starting point will be to make the ball joint to ball joint distance the same as you had prviously. Final adjustment will come with the wheel alignment.

A bit of a guestimate here but I would say, place the wheels in the straight ahead position, anchor one end of the dampner then get the dampner at half travel and fix it to the drag link.

drive it in in the straight ahead position pull the old one out measure it up against a piece of wood and drill 2 holes in it that the threads of the old link can drop into.

initially drop the new link into those 2 holes and if it goes in easy drop it onto the vehicle. it should sit all the way down on the tapers. If it does its done and dusted, tighten up the nuts, add the lock pins and your laughing.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

drive it in in the straight ahead position pull the old one out measure it up against a piece of wood and drill 2 holes in it that the threads of the old link can drop into.

initially drop the new link into those 2 holes and if it goes in easy drop it onto the vehicle. it should sit all the way down on the tapers. If it does its done and dusted, tighten up the nuts, add the lock pins and your laughing.

If you need to know, the thread on the drag link is 11/16" x 16 tpi NS.

How i do them is park it with wheels running straight knock out the std crud and use it alongside the H/Duty ones i make and screw in the tie rod ends with lock nuts all ready screwed on till its close enough then refit .

If your drag link is like the ones i make it should have a left and right hand thread either end and once fitted all you need to do is turn the drag link to adjust its length .

What i do is refit the drag link or trac rod which ever and leave the lock nuts undone tighten up the tie rod ends to spec then test drive and adjust by turning the drag link/trac rod to get the sweet spot then tighten the locking nuts and job done .

Yeah it does have different threads, that sounds simple enough. I assume I will need to have it alligned after fitting the new drag link?

Originally Posted by thrower78

Yeah it does have different threads, that sounds simple enough. I assume I will need to have it alligned after fitting the new drag link?

If you can steer to full left lock and full right lock, then any further length adjustment is to centre the steering wheel when you are driving straight ahead.

If the steering wheel has to be turned toward the right when you want to go straight, the drag link is too long, so make it shorter. Vice versa if the steering wheel has to be turned toward the left.

Edit: If you do this and have not adjusted the tie rod, you will not require a wheel alignment

Couldn't you just knock out the DS ball joint and then do the same on the PS (because it is held by the steering box, and then adjust the HD link compared to the standard one and then reinstall the HD link into the PS first and then adjust it slightly until it goes neatly into the DS. Sounds like less mucking around to me. Then later get a wheel alignment.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

. Then later get a wheel alignment.

Why spend good money on a wheel alignment when the only adjustment is toe in/out? That can easily be measured and adjusted in the driveway at home.
I have had my RRC for about 5 years and it hasn't had a "paid for" wheel alignment yet...