Thread: Good deal on V8 camshafts but help me choose one

The 3.9efi cams are suggested by quite a few makers experienced with the Rover V8 as it produces much more low down torque from a better duration.
I replaced my stock 3.9 with a Dynotec PC216, purported to be a stage 1 increase suitable for stock ECU but I now want to go back to a genuine cam as it wont idle an feels a lot flatter and asthmatic.
Try Piper cams in the UK, think it's Home - Piper Cams - Europe’s leading manufacturer of performance camshafts for one or just do a general search for cam manufacturers

cheers

Andrew

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

The 3.9efi cams are suggested by quite a few makers experienced with the Rover V8 as it produces much more low down torque from a better duration.
I replaced my stock 3.9 with a Dynotec PC216, purported to be a stage 1 increase suitable for stock ECU but I now want to go back to a genuine cam as it wont idle an feels a lot flatter and asthmatic.
Try Piper cams in the UK, think it's Home - Piper Cams - Europe’s leading manufacturer of performance camshafts for one or just do a general search for cam manufacturers

cheers

Andrew

The joys assosciated with changine a cam, without alterations to the ECU, you can't just change a cam profile without issues

It will pull different vacuum levels if a more aggresive profile and the ECU can't magically fix it without being remapped

Originally Posted by rovercare

The joys assosciated with changine a cam, without alterations to the ECU, you can't just change a cam profile without issues

It will pull different vacuum levels if a more aggresive profile and the ECU can't magically fix it without being remapped

Having been in engine business for years, fully realize this, however tell this to TRS in Adelaide.... Profile actually looks smaller when you put them side by side. This is why I think it has idle problems a it's not pulling enough and feels flat.
It's a side issue now as I have the D2 to play with and time to look at it properly. Still deciding whether to restore or lock n load the Rangie...

Cheers

Andrew

Thanks for all the replies. However I'm not sure I'm any closer to a decision than when I started.

I'm keen to stick to these options as the price is less than half of what I can get a complete kit for here. (AUD $324 delivered)

Should I toss a coin between the early carb cam or the 3.9 efi cam?

I recall advice that a stock 3.5 EFI cam in 3.9 and larger strokers (with and without EFI) works a treat for extra low down torque and also being idle/auto friendly

Originally Posted by mark2

Thanks for all the replies. However I'm not sure I'm any closer to a decision than when I started.

I'm keen to stick to these options as the price is less than half of what I can get a complete kit for here. (AUD $324 delivered)

Should I toss a coin between the early carb cam or the 3.9 efi cam?

G`day mark2

Not surprised your no closer , it`s a subject you`d have to devote alot of time to for an understanding . I Certainly Don`t and from my observations some of those that profess to certainly don`t .

For mine i`d go with the early carby 3.5 low compression cam with yours .

I`m not sure i have the figures on them but may have and think i have the 3.9 efi ones but it`s a subject i don`t put alot of time into and as i say don`t understand it anyhow .

I think you will find the carb 3.5 cam will produce more torque and the efi 3.9 cam will produce more horsepower . That`s in comparision with each other .

If your engine runs out of breath now at 4000revs i`d suggest it`s set up pretty well because it`s a common thing for your type to break/crack the skirts , may not be rev related but it can`t help .

Another suggestion would be to have a look at the WADE cam web site , i haven`t looked there for a while but they used to have a cam picker thing , you put the spec that you know of your engine in and it suggests one of there grinds to suit also speaking to them on the phone they are/were very helpful , they are however in Vic so the mob in QLD suggested earlier may be as helpful and i`m sure if you ask both they`ll give you different specs for a cam to suit .

A last suggestion is to get hold of a dial gauge /degree wheel ETC. and if you don`t know learn how to what is refered to as " dial the cam in ", just means to time it as you want and also if you do a bit of reading you`ll find out changing a degree or two forward or back and you can alter the revs at which things work a bit like ignition timing i guess but you`ll need some specs for the cam you get .

Coarse you can do the dot to dot thing it works and it`s what the manual says to do but the manual also says nothing on preload for lifters .

Cheers

Mark - read this.......

Cam Theory and the Rover V8

The info in the link above is brilliant, pure gold.

Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

.......
...................I replaced my stock 3.9 with a Dynotec PC216, purported to be a stage 1 increase suitable for stock ECU but I now want to go back to a genuine cam as it wont idle an feels a lot flatter and asthmatic....................


cheers

Andrew

Did the same thing a couple of years ago when I did a top end rebuild on my 3.5l 86 EFI classic. Worst thing I ever did. Cam is great for zooming up the South Road at 140 Km/h, but totally useless under 3000 RPM. If I were to do it again I'd go for the cam that gave me the best low down torque.

Deano