Thread: choice of isolator

There is lots of neat stuff out there regarding twin battery controllers, but before I got too deep into that, I would think about where the batterys are going to be mounted.

Reduced battery cable length is usually the primary concern; the longer the cables, the thicker they should be with a dedicated ground cable as well.

Modifications are always a balance between security, access, effectiveness, asthestics, cost, and practicality.

If you had one of those big "sticks out a lot" bumpers at the front, I would consider mounting the batterys in boxes on top of the bumper; yes, radical and uncommon, but ...

More common, big trucks seem to mount their batterys in boxes mounted to the outside side of the frame rails; also possible I think on a Series but access would not be so great and when wading, well....

If low is not good, then consider high - tyres seem to mount well on the roof rack - why not batterys?

All things considered, I kind of think the Land Rover designers of long ago decided on under the seats as the least worst of all the alternatives.

I might add that then they did not have the option of relatively sealed batterys with vent hose arrangements, side post connections and battery cables with some pretty high class sheathing covers that we tend to now take for granted.

Myself, I guess I would just leave the battery location where it now is, but run all new cables, both positive and negative, and then consider side post batterys and new tie down arrangements to make certain everything stays where it is supposed to. All this would be a project in itself.

As to controllers, the Traxide stuff works well but does not seem to have any fancy lights available. As such, you might want to go with that anyway and then work out some digital round gauge display arrangement of voltage and amps for each of the batterys. There are some neat looking 2" led / analogue gauges made that would look good - and all the wiring would be within the cab.

Originally Posted by bbyer

There is lots of neat stuff out there regarding twin battery controllers, but before I got too deep into that, I would think about where the batterys are going to be mounted.

Reduced battery cable length is usually the primary concern; the longer the cables, the thicker they should be with a dedicated ground cable as well.

Modifications are always a balance between security, access, effectiveness, asthestics, cost, and practicality.

If you had one of those big "sticks out a lot" bumpers at the front, I would consider mounting the batterys in boxes on top of the bumper; yes, radical and uncommon, but ...

More common, big trucks seem to mount their batterys in boxes mounted to the outside side of the frame rails; also possible I think on a Series but access would not be so great and when wading, well....

If low is not good, then consider high - tyres seem to mount well on the roof rack - why not batterys?

All things considered, I kind of think the Land Rover designers of long ago decided on under the seats as the least worst of all the alternatives.

I might add that then they did not have the option of relatively sealed batterys with vent hose arrangements, side post connections and battery cables with some pretty high class sheathing covers that we tend to now take for granted.

Myself, I guess I would just leave the battery location where it now is, but run all new cables, both positive and negative, and then consider side post batterys and new tie down arrangements to make certain everything stays where it is supposed to. All this would be a project in itself.

As to controllers, the Traxide stuff works well but does not seem to have any fancy lights available. As such, you might want to go with that anyway and then work out some digital round gauge display arrangement of voltage and amps for each of the batterys. There are some neat looking 2" led / analogue gauges made that would look good - and all the wiring would be within the cab.

I totally hear ya mate, but I am ****ed off with having to try and disconnect or connect back up the batteries with totally zero space sparking up my life each time just for fun,and feel the extra space available to me in the tub would make a huge difference to access and ease of use.
cheers for the info on the traxide stuff I will look that up regards Andy

Hi Lardy

I would agree on the traxide side of things too great service and products.. the SC40 and sc80 work well (dual battery controller)

If you want a heavy duty switch (isolator) look at something like the blue sea range of marine switches. I'm sure the one i use on the boat is a 350amp switch in fact heres the link e-Series Battery Switch Dual Circuit Plus™ - PN 5511e - Blue Sea Systems

note that this is a dual circuit switch tho.. so it opens 2 separate circuits (which i have 1 crank and 1 accessory circuit) they make loads of others and they are fairly reasonable at places like 12v shop in welshpool.

Thanks

Steve

I've got an IBS unit off Bars and Racks. Has nice little LED's to show its charging and buttons to press if you wish to link the batteries etc etc.

Originally Posted by 5teve

Hi Lardy

I would agree on the traxide side of things too great service and products.. the SC40 and sc80 work well (dual battery controller)

If you want a heavy duty switch (isolator) look at something like the blue sea range of marine switches. I'm sure the one i use on the boat is a 350amp switch in fact heres the link e-Series Battery Switch Dual Circuit Plus™ - PN 5511e - Blue Sea Systems

note that this is a dual circuit switch tho.. so it opens 2 separate circuits (which i have 1 crank and 1 accessory circuit) they make loads of others and they are fairly reasonable at places like 12v shop in welshpool.

Thanks

Steve

Steve you are a legend that is the beasty i am looking for two circuits so i always start and another for fridge (when i get it) and the other crap thanks bud

Originally Posted by scott oz

I've got an IBS unit off Bars and Racks. Has nice little LED's to show its charging and buttons to press if you wish to link the batteries etc etc.

pretty lights ...I am sold I was a moth in a former life lol

Hi folks, and this is not specifically aimed at the IBS gear, just about all isolators that have a battery charge state indicator, do not show the state of charge of any battery.

These indictors show the voltage in the system and unfortunately for the unsuspecting user, this does not indicate whether the battery is charging or not.

The only way to monitor the STATE of CHARGE of a given battery is to monitor both the battery’s terminal voltage ( which these devices do ) but the more importantly, to monitor the current usage, both during charging and while under load.

You can have a battery on it’s last legs and these volt meters ( that’s all they are ) can show a high voltage at the terminals but when you go to use the battery, it last just a few minutes or worst still, if it’s your cranking battery, it won’t turn the motor over.

If you need to monitor your batteries, you need to fit something like an Xantrex system.

These are both expensive and complex to fit but you get a genuine battery monitoring system.

With all these voltage monitors, all you get is some lovely flashing lights that in all honesty, tell you nothing more than that your alternator is working, because all they read once your motor is started, is the voltage of your alternator and not the actual SoC of any battery.

Just be careful of the amount of info these volt meters actually give you.

BTW, a $10 digital multi meter from Dick Smiths will give you more accurate info and can be used for a load of other choice

Originally Posted by lardy

Steve you are a legend that is the beasty i am looking for two circuits so i always start and another for fridge (when i get it) and the other crap thanks bud

Hi Mate

Your welcome

Make sure its rated to whatever your crank will be.. i think they do a HD range also with over 2000A crank capability..

If you then strap a sc40 or sc80 between the batteries also then you have a setup that will stay charged and will always start. The SC40/80 will also drain some of your main battery too, down to a safe crank voltage (11.5 or 12.5 cant remember) before isolating between the 2 batteries which gives you a capacity that is greater than your aux battery..

This is the setup i have in my boat as i cant be bothered with the manual switch types used normally.

By the way... i wasnt sure when you said isolator whether you were talking a main switch to turn everything off or whether you were purely on about a dual battery controller / solenoid / VSR etc etc etc

Thanks

Steve