Thread: TD5 EGR removal

There have been any number of posts on EGR removal and how to do a "full" removal and a part removal.

You could just use a single blanking plate under the heat exchanger on the manifold side. Use longer bolts when re attaching.

It would then look "standard".

You would then have to disconnect the EGR module to the EGR valve. Again this could be done by a simple plug.

Without removing the butterfly valve in the air intake tube you leave a substantial restriction in airflow and the chance of the butterfly valve not being fully open.

Just my thoughts.

I will be removing the EGR as well, but my question is - why does TD5 alive use 3 blanking plates - one on each side of heat exchanger and one on the manifold when, in my opinion only one is neccesary, at the outlet side of the heat exchanger? Will one blanking plate be suffice or are the three really neccessary? and why?

Originally Posted by crash

I will be removing the EGR as well, but my question is - why does TD5 alive use 3 blanking plates - one on each side of heat exchanger and one on the manifold when, in my opinion only one is neccesary, at the outlet side of the heat exchanger? Will one blanking plate be suffice or are the three really neccessary? and why?

I first did mine with only one plate then was advised needed 3. I could not see why though other than to getting rid of the unused pipes ect. After fitting the othe plates, pig job by the way,no change what so ever.

Allan

Originally Posted by crash

I will be removing the EGR as well, but my question is - why does TD5 alive use 3 blanking plates - one on each side of heat exchanger and one on the manifold when, in my opinion only one is neccesary, at the outlet side of the heat exchanger? Will one blanking plate be suffice or are the three really neccessary? and why?

Firstly, only 1 is necessary as observed, but leaves a pipe with exhaust swirling and some people want it gone.

You can also just leave the heat exchanger open at each end and blank the manifold (common).

The 3 plates is just to 'tidy it up' and prevent much sitting inside the exchanger.

other than the fact that water pipes go to the cooler, is there any reason why you would keep the cooler on there? I'm assuming linking the pipes wouldnt be too hard, and i know they go brittle and snap quite easily, so one less thing to go wrong?

Steve

Originally Posted by 5teve

other than the fact that water pipes go to the cooler, is there any reason why you would keep the cooler on there? I'm assuming linking the pipes wouldnt be too hard, and i know they go brittle and snap quite easily, so one less thing to go wrong?

Steve

You could just join them no worries...

I removed my EGR a few weeks ago, and just used 1x blanking plate on the EGR side of the heat exchanger. Really easy ... easier than trying to install it on the manifold end ! Leaves the heat exchanger & plumbing in place if for any reason I need to re-install the EGR ... (but I doubt it).

My EGR was in pretty good shape (after 138k km or so) and was working correctly. Being an EU3 version, it had the butterfly. It was dripping with oily muck though, and the inlet manifold has a greasy black muck lining the inside ... time for an I/C clean, manifold clean and maybe a Provent on the crankcase breather to get the oil out of the intake system.

Kev..

Originally Posted by 5teve

other than the fact that water pipes go to the cooler, is there any reason why you would keep the cooler on there? I'm assuming linking the pipes wouldnt be too hard, and i know they go brittle and snap quite easily, so one less thing to go wrong?

Steve

As I’ve said in a few posts I’ve gone the whole hog. (2001 TD5 EU3 EGR system).

I removed everything I could. By removing the heat-exchanger I was able to use standard LR parts and re-plumb the coolant back to the radiator. This is a fair bit more work as it requires the radiator to be removed and the unused spigot on the radiator (lower rear driver side) to be tapped. Standard LR pipe then just connects up.

I still struggle with reconnecting the “Provent or standard breather” to the air intake regardless of how little oil residue goes back into my nice clean intake system. You’re still putting “hot contaminated air back into the system”.

Reading up on the EGR system it only operates at very low revs. It’s closed most of the time. So is all that “crap” in the intake manifold in the main from the contaminated crank case air?

If so, then blanking the EGR and leaving the valve in achieves very little