... Also i believe that there is a baffle plate that is sold by Holley, for the float chamber ... For when it is used in hill climbs, it stops the float from dropping when the bowl is on a angle and causing the carb to flood
Still , as Loanrangie said , the 62 mains are far to big , try 58;s instead
... Also i believe that there is a baffle plate that is sold by Holley, for the float chamber ... For when it is used in hill climbs, it stops the float from dropping when the bowl is on a angle and causing the carb to flood
Fitting a vent whistle, which sticks out into the fuel bowl and then some fuel line, on the vent pipe, the one the fuel was leaking out the top of, cut on an angle will stop the fuel spilling from the bowl into the big hole, when on big angles and stop the flooding, Holleys are a complete ***** of a thing in the bush without this, fine on moderate inclines, but painful on the really steep stuff
I read this thing, was going to suggest aerostart, to find if it wasn't spark issue, lucky I read the lot![]()
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
This relates to a 390 Holley, vacuum secondary, automatic choke. It may be of help to you.
Setting up...Basic jet setting for standard specification Rover V8....
Primary main jets : 52
Secondary main jet (when secondary metering block is fitted) : 55
Accelerator pump discharge nozzle : 25
Accelerator pump cam (check in positions 1 & 2) : Red
Power valve : 6.5
Secondary diaphragm spring (medium) : standard, plain coloured
Float levels : Both must be set to factory specification...ie when the externally adjustable fuel bowls having fuel dribble out the sight plug holes when the car is rocked side to side and parked on level ground. Float levels MUST be set before tuning is carried out. If no fuel dribbles out, the float level needs to be raised. If fuel runs out, then the float level is too high and needs to be lowered. In both cases undo the adjustment screw on the top and at the front of each fuel bowl and turn the adjustment nut clockwise to raise the fuel level and anti-clockwise to lower it. It is critical that the float levels are exactly right!!
Idle adjustment screw : Turn the primary idle adjustment screw so that the primary barrels are open no more than 1/2 a turn from the fully closed position. If the engine runs too slow like this, remove the carburettor and adjust the secondary butterflies so that they are admitting more air. This might have to be done a few times to get it right, but with the engine idling at the requred rpm and the primary barrels closed as much as they reasonably can be, the primary butterflies will sweep past the progression slots to the maximum extent possible, resulting in optimum acceleration without hesitation.
Once the idle adjustment has been finalised, the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted and that is the next part.
If this is of use, please let me know and I'll post more instructions.
Ron.
Best place for Holley bits, cheap, great service
Hume Performance
RoverP6B , the difference between a Vac progressive 390 and a 350 holley ,hes got ,is like comparing a CD strommy with a SU , they are nothing like each other !!!
400HPONGAS wrote,...Gotcha..RoverP6B , the difference between a Vac progressive 390 and a 350 holley ,hes got ,is like comparing a CD strommy with a SU , they are nothing like each other !!!I am not familiar with Holley carbs, hence the reason I prefaced the instructions with....it may be of help....(on the other hand, it may not).
Thanks...
Ron.
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