Strange noise from V8 engine - Video attatched!

I had an old hilux petrol that actually snapped a rod bolt and slowly peeled the big end cap back till it spat the rod, sounded just like that, sorry. I hated that rusted out excuse for a car, so I had to hold my foot flat to finish it off. You can check all the big ends in a stage 1 in a couple of hours anyway, just order a sump gasket and pull the sump off, and check the rod movement on each journal with a large screw driver, won’t be a main so leave them alone. Have a look at the stuff you find in the sump , shine a torch up at the pistons and watch them for any play. You should be able to get a look at the cam lodes to with a little creativity. Even if you find a big end bearing has gone a little pear shaped it’s not the end of the world! Just open it up, polish the journal, micrometer it up and polish it round-ish again and fit the new shells, undersize if required. Seal it all back up and drive on!! This works, I’ve done it, ok so it was a tractor, but its done a couple of 1000 hrs now and no problem. PS, I also own & drive stage one V8 every day!Oh, make sure you drain the oil first, I forgot that somehow once.I forgot to mention, if you don't have oil peasure, this won't help, check the end of the dizzy, still pulling the sump off will give you peace of mind.

400HPONGAS wrote,...

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Check all your pushrod to rocker clearances .(PS shouldnt be any clearance , Silly rover V8's run 40 to 60 thou pre-load )

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Rover V8 lifter preload,..anywhere from 20 to 60 thou is acceptable,..20 thou is optimum

From Crane Cams..."What is Hydraulic Lifter Preload?
Mechanical cam designs require a running clearance or valve lash; hydraulic lifters are just the opposite. When the rocker arm assembly is properly torqued down into position, the pushrod must take up all the clearance and descend into the hydraulic lifter, causing the pushrod seat to move down by .020? to .060?. The distance that the pushrod seat moves down away from the retaining lock is the Lifter Preload. The hydraulic mechanism requires this precise amount of preload for it to do its job properly."

Ron.

RoverP6B , what do you run lifters at ?, and how do you adjust them to the "Optimum" clearance ? How many people use "Crane" cams in their Rover V8's ? What is your installed valve Height , ? What happens to the Rocker Geometry if you change pedestal heights or pushrod lengths ? What does the mug Rover V8 owner do when he has had the heads decked ?

Okay here's along shot no one seems to have thrown in the basket,
top off a piston, had one go in a 202 holden many moons ago sounded very similar to that noise, as i said it's along shot. that i hope it's not.



Tony
03 D2a 4.0 V8

400HPONGAS wrote,...

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What does the mug Rover V8 owner do when he has had the heads decked ?

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Probably the same as a mug Holden V8 owner...:p

The use of the Crane cams article was for reference only, as from your prior statement you gave the impression to everyone that you didn't really understand why a preload was necessary. I know that is not true, but that is the impression that you gave.

Best of luck with it all,
Ron.

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Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS

RoverP6B , what do you run lifters at ?, and how do you adjust them to the "Optimum" clearance ? How many people use "Crane" cams in their Rover V8's ? What is your installed valve Height , ? What happens to the Rocker Geometry if you change pedestal heights or pushrod lengths ? What does the mug Rover V8 owner do when he has had the heads decked ?

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Optimum clearance- pedestal shims.
Crane cams- who knows, what does it matter.
Installed valve height - don't remember anything mentioned on valve change so irelevant, but, if changed from STD, pedestal shims.
Rocker geometry - nothing changes, you aren't changing the ratio of the rocker.
Pushrods lengths - why would they change? You don't machine them, you don't use different length ones and unless you go solid cam, you don't use adjustable rods.
The "mug" Rover V8 owner seeks advice from "mug" Rover V8 experienced builders or gets info from "mug" Rover websites such as this one amongst many others and determines if, yet again, pedestal shims are required to adjust the clearances.
But you already knew that......

RoverP6B , Methinks that that "everyone" you refer to , is actually just you . Have you ever even had the rocker covers off and had a look at all that jiggery pokery in there ? or will pictures on the net suffice ?
Yes , LOVEMYRANGIE , I allready Knew that , but having stripped a 100 Rover V8's Ive never encountered shims under the Pedestals and most of the engines had some "work" done.Never seen them fitted with Lash caps either (But you knew that didnt you ?) Also if you dont ubderstand rocker geometry is also about the Valve to rocker point contact patch and whether is rolling over center or not , nothing to do with preset, unchangeable rocker ratios .Many years ago , some smart person invented the Adjustable Pushrod , but you knew about them . Me myself I use ajustable roller rockers , which I here you can even get for a Rover V8 (and just for you I fit CLEVO roller rockers to up the ratio to 1.8 ) AS you would allready Know most of us who have to rebuild for free simply turn over those rocker shafts , (a dirty cheap trick) Next time you pull the gear off , get a straight edge and drop it across the tops of all the valves , what do you see ? Off course you knew that correct installed height can greatly effect valve spring pressures let alone the difference every .020 will make to cam event timing . Alas , if only Rover used the Oldsmobile heads instead of the Buicks , what a different better engine it would have been !!!

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Originally Posted by Psimpson7

I have a strange engine noise of which I am not sure of the cause.

I have put a video below to show the noise. Does anyone have any ideas? The video actually picks it up a bit more than it sounds. (hopefully it doesn't get messed up by the upload)

I have had the rocker covers off and it isnt a stuck valve. They are all moving correctly. What else could it be? Stuck tappets(s), big ends!??

The engine was last run a fairly long time ago (maybe 6 months) and sounded fine then. It also has the correct amount of oil in it.

Peter

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Hi Peter

If the motor was fine 6 months ago ... and now it has a single constant tick ... It will be a collapsed lifter

Others have had the same problem, and the solution is quite simple

SPROVER is on the money


Some links for you ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...ing-noise.html


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-hope-not.html

Just a case of old lifters .... It's happened to me on a few of my cars that have sat for 6 months ......

My trick is to start the motor ... Get it warmed / Stop it & let it rest / then start it and drive around the block / Stop it & let it rest / then start it and drive around the block .... You will hear the sound reduce as it starts to slowly pickup and repump itself up

Just be aware that the pushrod is free floating while all this is going on ... So don't rev the guts out of it


Hope it helps
Mike
:)

400HPONGAS wrote,...

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RoverP6B , Methinks that that "everyone" you refer to , is actually just you

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You have just payed me a big compliment if you feel that I am the only person on the forum that realised from your prior statment that you didn't understand what a lifter pre load is and why a Rover V8 requires one.

I fee sure though as I said before that everyone,..maybe that was an exaggeration, maybe not everyone realised your error. Don't feel bad, we all live and learn.

Ron.

Well some updates....

Its not the lifters. I have tried the 500ml of diesel to thin the oil and ran it at tickover for about 45 mins or so. There was no change.

I had the rockers off again and double checked everything. The pushrods are all straight, and the valves appear to be opening ok.

I have just drained the sump... half into a container, half onto the floor of the garage through the dc prop joint so I then called it a night.

Will have a look at the big ends/mains over the weekend. It has also been suggested that maybe something is lose in a bore (maybe I dropped a bolt in which would be frustrating!) so if I cant see any issues at the bottom end I will maybe pull the heads :(

Update next week..... if I haven't put the damn thing on ebay! :(:(

Rgds
Pete