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Thread: v8 missfire

  1. #1
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    v8 missfire

    Our Stage 1 is annoying me a lot! Any help would be great.

    It's a 3.5, with a holley 350, and electronic ignition.

    Ok, it was running fine and did about 150km before I pulled the engine to change the clutch.


    Early in that 150km or so I changed the following when I serviced it:
    • New Ngk plugs
    • New HT leads
    • New Distributor cap and rotor arm
    • Rebuilt carb and reset float level
    Now after I put it back together I have a missfire under load and I cannot solve it. It seems to rev fine with no load, although it is a bit wooly until it picks up.


    I have so far since the missfire appeared:
    • Fitted a new fuel filter.
    • checked the fuel supply.
    • checked the carb.
    • fitted a new coil (thanks Grimace).
    • checked the voltage at the +ve terminal of the coil which was @7.3v which I think is fine as its running a ballast resistor, which would suggest the BR is fine too?
    • removed, cleaned and refitted plugs.
    • removed and refitted every HT lead, double checking firing order.
    • Removed, cleaned and refitted earths on engine and battery.
    • All related wiring seems fine.
    • All vacuum hoses are connected as they should be.
    Another mate has a spare distributor with EI he has offered to lend me to test.

    Could this be it? What else could it be?

    It did seem to be slightly better after I changed the coil.

    Why did it suddenly occour after I changed the clutch?!

    Cheers
    Pete

  2. #2
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    Another mate has a spare distributor with EI he has offered to lend me to test.

    Could this be it? What else could it be?
    Do the dizzy cap and rotor have "Lucas" on them? If not it is very well known that some cheap rotors go directly to earth through the shaft.

    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    Hi Phillip,

    Rotor has Lucas written on it.

    No writing on cap, but it came in a Lucas box which I still have.

    Coil is Bosch

    Rgds
    Pete

  4. #4
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    These things can drive you mad, but probably a coincidence that it happened after the clutch change.

    I think I would start with the plugs and maybe try another set. its not unknown for a plug to be a dud. Someone posted about this recently with NGK plugs, and missing under load is a common plug failure.

    Maybe have the AF ratio tested by someone with a sniffer under load to eliminate the carb.
    Regards Philip A

  5. #5
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    Pete,

    Had a similar issue with the new series 3. The plugs were new.

    Checked everything, then ran a timing light over each plug lead and found #4 not firing. Swapped #6 and #4 leads, it stayed with #4. Swapped #4 plug with #3 it went to #3. Problem found. It was sparking intermittently, and with so many firing strokes it was hard to pick.

    Everything else was also new. It happens sometimes.

    Good luck, I want to see you guys out with us on Sunday.

    CC

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psimpson7 View Post
    Our Stage 1 is annoying me a lot! Any help would be great.

    It's a 3.5, with a holley 350, and electronic ignition.

    Ok, it was running fine and did about 150km before I pulled the engine to change the clutch.


    Early in that 150km or so I changed the following when I serviced it:
    • New Ngk plugs
    • New HT leads
    • New Distributor cap and rotor arm
    • Rebuilt carb and reset float level
    Now after I put it back together I have a missfire under load and I cannot solve it. It seems to rev fine with no load, although it is a bit wooly until it picks up.

    I have so far since the missfire appeared:
    • Fitted a new fuel filter.
    • checked the fuel supply.
    • checked the carb.
    • fitted a new coil (thanks Grimace).
    • checked the voltage at the +ve terminal of the coil which was @7.3v which I think is fine as its running a ballast resistor, which would suggest the BR is fine too?
    • removed, cleaned and refitted plugs.
    • removed and refitted every HT lead, double checking firing order.
    • Removed, cleaned and refitted earths on engine and battery.
    • All related wiring seems fine.
    • All vacuum hoses are connected as they should be.
    Another mate has a spare distributor with EI he has offered to lend me to test.

    Could this be it? What else could it be?

    It did seem to be slightly better after I changed the coil.

    Why did it suddenly occour after I changed the clutch?!

    Cheers
    Pete
    Pete, this seems to me to be an area to investigate. What jets/ power valve did you fit?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    I've just swapped out the distributor, and electronic ignition. (thanks Eric!)

    Took it out for a quick test and seems maybe better, but need to adjust the dizzy timing and will test it again tommorow...

  8. #8
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    Hi Justin,

    Sorry I missed your reply yesterday.

    The jets are too big, they are 62's but it worked fine for the first week or so so I don't think it is that. At least not the missfire under load bit anyway.

    I have had a bit of a play with it with the replacement distributor / EI now and I cant seem to improve it....

    Remembering back this is the sort of reason I ended up stopping having old Landies!

    May start swapping stuff back I think... plugs/leads/cap/rotor one at a time.....

    Rgds
    Pete

  9. #9
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    Are you running a genuine electronic distributor? They should not be run with a ballast resistor. Make sure your coil is a 12V electronic compatible coil and run a new 12V wire from the ignition switch if your ballast is in the loom. It may also be your ignition amplifier, they are a known issue with weakness of spark. The Bosh amp conversion may be on the cards.

  10. #10
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    Ok a slight update...

    Both Distributors I have here are fitted with different brands of aftermarket EI.

    I have just done a few more tests...

    I had it running and one at a time pulled off the HT leads.

    Removing the leads to cylinders 3 and 4 seemingly made no difference. So I plugged some other plugs into the leads and they sparked fine.

    I then swapped the plugs out, and tested the ones I removed which worked fine.

    I then swapped the 2 leads to those cylinders. One seemed better after this, with a difference being noticeable on cylinder 4 after removing the HT lead.

    It seemed to be running slightly better aswell, but still isnt right.

    I then went through and removed all the leads again one at a time and now leads 1 and 3 dont seem to make a difference when removed.

    Im confused now, and wont be able to look at it again until Sunday I dont think.

    Rgds
    Pete

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