2004 - but the 90 always had a rover rear - maybe you are reading the 90 bit?Quote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
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2004 - but the 90 always had a rover rear - maybe you are reading the 90 bit?Quote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
1) THANKS for the "definitive" list, rick130
2) The Good Oil link should be DIRECTLY to that post
3) A Wiki for techinical questions would be better than an aggregate of threads
4) Different conditions require different oils - I notice Rick mentions high temp/load in some gearbox oils, and I have the opposite problem where my well-cared for LT77 is horrible until up to temp now it's home in a Toowoomba winter, but was perfect in Brisbane and Mackay. The oil is just too viscous close to zero, which has never troubled it before. 120km in garaging will make a difference in the "definitive" oil.
i beleive it was 2001 / 2002 some 2001 have the sals others dont. My 2002 extreme has the rover diff... i think the 130's kept them tho didnt they?Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Thanks
Steve
Ah Ok thanks. Makes sense.
Scrambler re point 3: i shall fix that in a second !
Where I am is colder than Toowoomba so I understand what you are saying re cold shift performance but my preference is to bias towards hot performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by scrambler
A few years back I logged the oil temps on my R380 (no oil cooler) and found that I was exceeding 75*C within 7-10km just cruising up the highway at 100km/h. :eek:
Apart from viscosity, an oils friction characteristics, (determined by the friction modifiers used) clearances in the box and just how worn or not the syncros are all have a bearing on shift performance.
Interestingly the Motul Gear 300 I'm now using in the R380 shifts a touch better at temps below about 20*C than Syntrans, being quite acceptable at sub zero temps yet it's technically a more viscous oil (75W-90), although in actual fact through some trick chemistry it is thinner than most 75W-85's below 20*.
The best cold shifting I ever had with my R380 was a syn ATF/7wt race gear oil blend, but it was worse when the 'box was up to temp.
I'm really confused now because I went to the Castrol site Castrol Australia - NetLube and drilled down to LR Defender 1995-1999 and there was totally different oils recommended that in Ricks post above.
Not at all, they list RX Super for the engine, and if you look at the notes down the bottom list Syntrans for the gearbox for severe service ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by VladTepes
RX-Super is a much better oil IMO than their other two prime recommendations.
The diff oils are as per Pete's original suggestions, (actually it hadn't carried from the t/case list ) and Castrols suggestion of VMX-M in the t/case is something you'd get away with in a really cool climate but it's a lesser grade viscosity wise than Land Rover recommend and not one I'd consider at all.
Vlad, there are plenty more oils out there that sort of fit the criteria, plenty more that are even better than I've listed, that's why I said way above it gets confusing listing oils.
Thanks Rick - yep I missed the RX Super.. does it only come in a tin or something rather than a pour bottle ? What gives there?
I remain confused (not hard to do really) but I must say thatthis thread is very helpful for me as otehrwise I;d be totally in the dark as to which to use. Feel free to PM me and tell me whjat you use in a 300Tdi engine ;)
Cheers
Vlad, what brand can you get the most easily with the best pricing ?
Hello guys,
thank you for this beautiful list. However, my understanding was that for LT230 one can use any 75W90 GL-4 gear oil. On the list there is mainly pure GL-5 oils recommended. Is it safe to use GL-5 only for LT230?
Hope someone experienced will find a minute to answer :-)
Thanks!
Regards
Jiri