Classic little insect/ant!@!!!
Had a couple of goes at wiping it off the screen.
Well done!
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Classic little insect/ant!@!!!
Had a couple of goes at wiping it off the screen.
Well done!
Could anyone please tell my what oil to put in my schuler ffrr transfer case. Thanks.
Sorry to dig up an old bone...
Supercrap have a 10ltr NULON 15W-40 API CI-4/SL on special ... $54
Thinking of giving that a whirl, any thoughts or experience with this oil?
Just on a side note, is a ryco filter sufficient, given that I'll be doing oil and filter at 5000ks? Ive never owned a diesel to have to worry about what I need to use, so any recommendations are appreciated :)
D1 or D2?
D1 96 vintage 268k
hi Rick,
I read with interest your oil posts, I have a question though, why would the rear diff cover, whether cast iron or not change the oil one would use? Or is the cast iron cover associated with different diff components?
bye
A Salisbury 8HA runs a lot hotter for a given load/speed than a Rover diff as it's quite a high hypoid design.Quote:
Originally Posted by toc_bat
The aftermarket heavy duty cast covers are around 8mm thick iron so don't transfer heat very well compared to a pressed steel cover or an aluminium one.
This makes the diff run even hotter as it can't dissipate heat as fast as an OE one.
Example. (and I'm pulling the running temps out of my posterior but having been stupid enough to touch a Sals diff with a tin cover after about two hours of high speed use and leaving skin behind, they get hot ;) )
Say you had Castrol EPX 80W-90 in the diff with a standard pressed steel cover and on a stinking hot summers day you were towing 2 tonne and the diff oil temp hit 80*C.
At 80*C that oils kinematic (actual measured) viscosity is 25.6 cSt.
You now shave the bottom of the diff for more clearance and need (want) to install a cast cover for protection and stop oil leaks. (the standard ones with the bottom lip removed leak terribly and can peel back like a sardine tin on rocks. Not good out in the middle of nowhere)
The new cover can't dissipate the heat near as well so the diff is running at 100*C in the same conditions (probably a gross exaggeration) but you filled it this time with Castrol SAF-XA which is an 80W-140 diff fluid.
At 100*C SAF-XA measures 29cSt so you have another 5*C up your sleeve before the diff oil becomes thinner than what you were running previously.
rick, thanks very much for a very informative post, bye
This thread doesn't discuss the best oil for the LT85?
What about Castrol BOT 402 Synthetic 75W-85?
• Excellent cold flow properties combined with balanced frictional characteristics.
• Excellent synchroniser performance and maintained frictional properties during lifetime.
• High shear stability.
• Excellent thermal and oxidative stability.
• Temperature reduction through reduced friction.
• Good anti-pitting behaviour
• Good seal compatibility.
• Free from chlorine and heavy metals.
The problem with BOT 402 is that we know absolutely nothing about it, (a decent TDS doesn't exist, to my knowledge) it costs an extortionate amount of money, and the 'claims' for it are the same as for all other good synthetic lubes on the market.
Example.
Castrol's excellent Syntrans 75W-85 is a PAO/ester synthetic oil and makes similar claims.
It's also approved for Volvo heavy vehicles, (it carries a Volvo trucking part #) and with oil analysis is claimed to be ok for 400,000km in large trucks. (although 20,000km seems the limit in an R380)
It's also something like 1/4 the price here of the LR exclusive BOT fluid.
If a 75w-90 GL-4 is desired, Syntrans M exists.
This is Eaton-RoadRanger approved and recommended for Rockwell, Spicer, Volvo and Mitsubishi/Fuso HD gearboxes.