D1 over-heating at times

Hi Shaun,

I would replace the expansion tank (radiator) cap.

Had the same situation with my D1, V8i changed thermostat flushed radiator and still would spike and percolate, experts said it has to be a head gasket...$2,500K :mad: later after they removed heads (head gasket was OK) tracked it down to expansion tank cap........

Also check that engine and hoses filled with water because they don't have a air bleeder valve you could have a pocket of air in system. Have to squeeze radiator hose to push water around system and keep filling radiator via bung.

Everytime my D1 overheats or spikes I change the radiator cap and it seem to do the trick.

Cheers

Baggy

Hi,

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the back of the instrument cluster and showing where the earth / ground wires should be terminating.

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee

Thanks for the info.. Will definately check out the watchdog.

You mention an airlock? Where exactly would the airlock be happening?

Thanks
Shaun

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standing at the front of the engine looking back, on the right hand side of the engine is a steel tube with a riser on it and a (plastic or brass) cap, it's about half way along and above the rocker cover. This is the highest point in the coolant system and is there so that you can bleed out any air that is trapped in the system. run the engine so it has positive pressure but not hot crack the cap if coolant comes straight out no problems, otherwise wait until it does (keeping an eye on the collant level in the header tank)

Thanks for the info.

Tried finding the riser you referring to and unable to locate it.

Attached is an image of the engine if someone could point me in the direction where the riser should be located.

Thanks

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...10/10/1139.jpg

Unfortunately ... your model does not have it ... They had it in that position up till about 1995 'ish ? ... LR deleted it & extended those 2 black hoses

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5...enginebay2.jpg


To bleed a difficult air pocket ... Find a hill / or a set of car ramps and get the nose of the car up in the air

Start it and warm it up to temp

Take the bleed bung on the TOP L/H side of the radiator to get all the air out of the radiator ... as this will now be the highest point
Massage & squeeze the top radiator hose to help remove the air



Just out of interest tho .... Does the Heater in the cabin work well ... or does it just blow luke warm air?



Cheers
Mike

Check your timing
I had the same problem for the last couple of days

It turned out my dizzy had come loose and backed of the timing causing it to overheat

Not boil just run a little hotter than it should

it also caused the car not to start it would just click


I moved the dizzy about 3 degrees anti clockwise and problem solved

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Just out of interest tho .... Does the Heater in the cabin work well ... or does it just blow luke warm air?

Cheers
Mike

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Hi Mike,

It's only blowing warm air, doesn't get hot.

Also, if the temp are on hot and I switch the sitcom switch on, it starts blowing cold air. Also the temp gauge starts showing cooler than normal (like it's reversed)

Thanks
Shaun

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Love all the electronic stuff ..... but analogues never tell ferbies

.... Good ol' gauges ....

... You even get to score a oil pressure gauge :D :D ..... (after you have altered the fittings)


Cheers
Mike

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Hi Mike,

I purchased the gauges you recommended.

Unfortunately the Temp probe doesn't fit on the D1 temp probe chamber.

Have you managed to fit it (assumption is you purchased the gauge ;) )

Thanks
Shaun

my temp guage got hot when the earth strap from the battery was loose,tdi but worth a look

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee

Hi Mike,
I purchased the gauges you recommended.

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Mmm .... was only answering your request for "where can you buy some" :angel:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee

Anyone know where i can get an analog temp gauge in the Brisbane area?
Regards
Shaun

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee

Unfortunately the Temp probe doesn't fit on the D1 temp probe chamber.

Have you managed to fit it (assumption is you purchased the gauge ;) )

Thanks
Shaun

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I take it that it has a "long copper bulb for a probe" on a length of copper looking wire

The probe goes in the top radiator hose under the clamp at the thermostat housing area ... should come complete with a wedge shaped piece of rubber to insert it with ... If the fitting weeps ... Use a bit of "Holimar 3" to help seal it up

The analogue gauge will help give you a second opinion to your electric gauge version ..

I have no need for the temp gauge ... But I do use the oil pressure gauge :)




Your answer of a luke warm cabin heater (not Hot) may be a suggestion to a blocked heater core ... which can give problems


BUT ... As others have said ... Try to exhaust this earth strap / or gauge fault business issue


Cheers
Mike