D1 over-heating at times

out of curiosity does the new temp gauge use the engine block or what ever it screws into as the earth point? If so and its electrical the problem will be apparent on both gauges?

Any chance of when the issue happens stopping, lifting the hood with engine still running, and clamping a jumper lead between negative on the battery and some random bit of engine metal close to the heater gauge probe mount point and checking if the gauge moves instantly at all? or just putting a nice fat lead between the negative battery terminal and the engine block somewhere anyway?

Sorry if this is a done to death idea...

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Originally Posted by Disco1Newbee

OEM gauge would spike to about 3/4 of the 'normal' range, and the analog would spike to about 85C (not sure how accurate the analog is or what the temp range of the analog is, but im guessing it could be trusted)

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Hi Shaun,

The 85 degrees you mention isnt hot at all, most engines will run about 85/90 degrees, the thermostat is designed to open at about this temperature.
Engines can safely run at 105/110 degrees due to the use of glycol in the coolant (this would not be a normal temperature though)

I think maybe the spike you are talking about is the thermostat opening and the hot coolant (85+ deg) flowing out of the engine and coming into contact with the probe (dending where you mounted it).

Do you have a photo of where you mount the analogue gauge?

thansk, Steve.

Stop mucking around and get it sorted easily... :cool:

1. You rodded the radiator... Did you have the block power flushed? If not, I'll be theres sand in the block from when it was cast. Get it power flushed.

2. Throw your thermostat out and replace it...
Getting hot, followed by a sudden drop to normal is a good sign of a slow or blocked thermostat. Its holding shut, then cracking fast and the inrush of cooler liquid is then returning the temp to normal.

3. Check your AUX fan switches are ok, and that your fans work.

4. Check your viscous fan works!

A few $$$ spent doing these will prevent a tonne of heartache :D

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Originally Posted by Tombie2

Stop mucking around and get it sorted easily... :cool:

A few $$$ spent doing these will prevent a tonne of heartache :D

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I agree, Tombie2 ...


Shaun ....
A note of check, when installing the thermostat ... It has a little Air bleed hole in the base plate ... When installing the thermostat it should be at the top, otherwise air gets trapped at that point and causes the thermostat to open & close erratically

Cheers
Mike

l feel for you mate, i really do .....i do hope you find what the prob is before it's just that once to often ...as mine did...:(..all the best,Ivee got nothing!!!!....;)

Although it's not something that everyone owns - I do because it's part of my trade tools an infared thermometer with red dot pointer is about $100-00 on flebay you can very accurately measure the temperature of the thermostat housing, the radiator and the engine - well actually anything you point it at.

Using one of these you can determine what temperature the thermostat is opening and shutting at, the speed at which it occurs, if there is blockages in the radiator - actually they are a very useful tool for a miriad of tasks.

It wont fix the problem but it is a very powerful diagnostic tool to help find a problem.

I bought an infrared thermometer from Jaycar some years ago, still works. It only gives you the temp of the item you aim at, not the temperature of the inside, but it is a good guide. Inside fluid can be a couple of degrees lower. Does your "new" viscous fan roar when going uphill or in a lower gear? My "new" one didn't, it was 5 weeks old and stuffed. I didn't find this out till I had checked everything again and came back to the coupling. A replacement from the seller was a good one.

[QUOTE=blackbuttdisco;1359913]I bought an infrared thermometer from Jaycar some years ago, still works. It only gives you the temp of the item you aim at, not the temperature of the inside, but it is a good guide. Inside fluid can be a couple of degrees lower.

An easy way to see just how accurate they are is put an aluminium pot full of water on the stove when it boils check the temp on the side - you may just be supprised at how close the pot is to the boiling point of water. using a fluke infared thermometer it is 100c, which means no temp difference - this is an experiment i do with apprentices every class that I teach basic thermodynamics, along with boiling water at room temperature by pulling a vaccum on the water

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Did you loop & bypass the heater?

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HI MIke,

Not as yet.. hopefully will get around to it this week.

Thanks
SHaun

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jsp

out of curiosity does the new temp gauge use the engine block or what ever it screws into as the earth point? If so and its electrical the problem will be apparent on both gauges?

Any chance of when the issue happens stopping, lifting the hood with engine still running, and clamping a jumper lead between negative on the battery and some random bit of engine metal close to the heater gauge probe mount point and checking if the gauge moves instantly at all? or just putting a nice fat lead between the negative battery terminal and the engine block somewhere anyway?

Sorry if this is a done to death idea...

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HI JSP,

The gauge is one of the good old gauges that has a capillary tube. There does not appear to be a wire for earthing on the gauge.

Thanks
Shaun