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Thread: my D2a TD5 is a pile of dog poo!

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantic View Post
    Just a dumb question as I'm no mechanic, but as a last resort have you tried unplugging and replacing the entire ecu and then seperately the cables by swapping with a standard spec unit from another disco?
    the ecu has been changed with a brand new one with stock mapping, and i de need to replace the whole wiring harness, it would be easier than doing it plug by plug.

    cheers phil

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh View Post
    I'll preface this by saying I know sweet bugger all about, well, anything. Particularly computer controlled diesels. So don't even bother responding if its way off the mark and I need to learn more...

    If the timing per se was a little out, ie it was injecting at the wrong moment in the stroke, wouldn't the injection pressure sensor (is there one?) think its got a higher/lower pressure than it should and hence push the pump harder to make up for the irregular pressure? The extra fuel would then compensate for the power loss that a non ECU engine would display. Since diesels run with an abundance of air it should theoretically still burn completely if the squirt was a little early giving it enough time to properly burn. plausable but not for a TD5, timing is easy to set, notch in cam gear and notch in bellhousing at TDC #1. the injectors are fed fuel by the FP and a regulator keeps the lot at 4.0bar. the ecu controlls the injection from signals from the crank angle sensor and the throttle, they would be the main ones, but also the maf and the map and the aap. the injectors are pressurised by a mechanical cam shaft but are injected by a solenoid controlled by the ecu, so ive sort of proven its not the timing by using 2 different ecu and 2 different programs...same outcome.

    So what tells the injector when to squirt? Is that the crank angle/position sensor feeding back to the ECU or is it purely mechanical with the timing belt? there is one other adjustment to timing and thats the injector cam gear, it has slots that could give advance or retard by rotating the gear on the cam, but as its never been undone ide hate to guess and move it, ide rather my valves not hit my pistons the rave manual dosnt go into how to time the gear and the cam

    If that was plausible, it'd be why the majority of sensors, cooling system, exhaust system etc didn't make a difference while excess fuel consumption is still the only symptom.


    As I said before I know little about anything useful, I can't even fix a 2.25P properly
    But I hope you get it sorted

    cheers phil

  3. #53
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    Next door neighbour syphoning fuel when you aren't looking?

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    Next door neighbour syphoning fuel when you aren't looking?
    I bet he wishes it was that easy!

  5. #55
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    G'Day Phil. Another couple of thoughts
    Could an injector be worn/ dribbling?
    Drivetrain loss: Checked the wheel alignment?
    Checked for a collapsed bearings/ worn diff, etc.
    Go for a 30 minute drive and compare heat on various components, hotter on one corner= additional friction= replace.
    Cheers, Dave.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    Next door neighbour syphoning fuel when you aren't looking?
    if he were he would have followed me back to QLD twice and countless other trips ive done in 20 000k's

    cheers phil

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barefoot Dave View Post
    G'Day Phil. Another couple of thoughts
    Could an injector be worn/ dribbling? see post #1 have tried a second set.
    Drivetrain loss: Checked the wheel alignment? see post #1 and #47
    Checked for a collapsed bearings/ worn diff, etc. both diffs have been replaced in the last 4 months, the rear one died on a mates farm, the front one started to click on the way home, it was done a week after the rear.
    Go for a 30 minute drive and compare heat on various components, hotter on one corner= additional friction= replace. i do this everytime i tow my camper i do all 6 wheels. and the rear bearings/hubs were checked yeaterday when i had the wheels off to do the rear shocks.
    Cheers, Dave.
    cheers phil

  8. #58
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    Watching with interest as I have always only got 550km out of a tank from a fill to the first click, before the low fuel light comes on. Worse when towing.

    Where my mate gets in excees 800km at the same time, admittedly his is a manual, but there shouldn't be that much difference.

    Your economy is worse than mine. You tried way more things than I to identify the issue, so I really hope you get it sorted Phil.

    Good Luck.

  9. #59
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    Phil
    I may have missed something but how much fuel are you putting in litre wise per fill?

  10. #60
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Phil,
    To date with everything that you've done and the symptoms you've got would suggest the fuel isn't going through the motor.
    Your fuel consumption figures seem very vague compered to the rest of your troubleshooting.
    On a quick search suggests a D2 has a 93 litre tank so it seems unlikely that you are putting in 90 litres at a fill.
    May be some careful logging of fuel is in order
    Have you looked at your Odo? Is it posable that you are travelling further and using less fuel that than you think?

    Best of luck with it.

    Tony

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