Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: help fitting 'T' bearing cup seals

  1. 2nd November 2010, 06:11 PM #1
    lux201's Avatar
    lux201
    lux201 is offline Master Supporter
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Northern Rivers
    Posts
    308
    Total Downloaded
    0

    help fitting 'T' bearing cup seals

    Howdy, I was wondering if someone might have an idea or some trick to fitting new replacement bearing cup 'T' seals.

    I am doing my rear main seal and figured I might as well get these done while im under there, I pulled off the bearing cup and the old seals cracked and fell apart in my hands.

    I have tried fitting the new ones without success as they tend to not remain in their place while the bearing cup is sliding back into place, I did manage to get the bearing cup home but the seals were protruding too much and I figured they would have an effect on the sump and rear main seal seating home properly.. ..so I grabed a stanley blade and trimmed them back flush.. this was at the end of a bad day and after doing damage to my new rear main seal while attempting to fit it in, I have since learned not to remove it from its plastic guide and now know that this is needed to fit the seal in place(live and learn).
    I have now ordered a new rear seal and 'T' seals an wish to do the job perfectly.

    I also have new clutch kit, input shaft seal, clutch fork, spigot, thrust bearing and have made up a replacement 'staple' by carefully bending a nail to the same shape and shaving down its head to fit between clutch fork and thrust bearing cradle.

    thanks in advance.
    -Jarrod.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 2nd November 2010, 06:26 PM #2
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    dont use the nail...

    the normal ones are plastic so that IF they come off after assembly they get mushed by the metal stuff without damaging the metal stuff if they get caught by the metal stuff.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 2nd November 2010, 06:41 PM #3
    roverrescue's Avatar
    roverrescue
    roverrescue is offline YarnMaster Supporter
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If I read your T-seal issue correctly then you are on the right track, try to get a hold of the "300tdi overhaul manual" my copy is on the PC that got toasted by an ant invasion but I found it on the internets someplace. Anyway, the factory overhaul manual recomends fitting the T-seal and then trimming it down to block face with a blade. Sump "gasket" is liquid sealant.

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 2nd November 2010, 06:43 PM #4
    lux201's Avatar
    lux201
    lux201 is offline Master Supporter
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Northern Rivers
    Posts
    308
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    dont use the nail...

    the normal ones are plastic so that IF they come off after assembly they get mushed by the metal stuff without damaging the metal stuff if they get caught by the metal stuff.
    I have been thinking this since I have made the nail alternative, with my older 200tdi there wasnt even a plastic one in there.. I dont think it really made a difference.
    I think you are right.. I might give the nail idea a miss, not worth the risk.
    cheers.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 2nd November 2010, 06:53 PM #5
    lux201's Avatar
    lux201
    lux201 is offline Master Supporter
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Northern Rivers
    Posts
    308
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    If I read your T-seal issue correctly then you are on the right track, try to get a hold of the "300tdi overhaul manual" my copy is on the PC that got toasted by an ant invasion but I found it on the internets someplace. Anyway, the factory overhaul manual recomends fitting the T-seal and then trimming it down to block face with a blade. Sump "gasket" is liquid sealant.

    S
    ok, so maybe I was on the right track, I have the rave manual but just cant seem to find the section that covers this.. I have prepared the sump and bottom of the block with a razor blade and a green scratchy with metho, nice and clean and ready for the goop.. I only wish that moment would come sooner
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 2nd November 2010, 07:13 PM #6
    justinc's Avatar
    justinc
    justinc is offline Swaggie Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Tdi 'T' seals are a bit of a nail biter I'm afraid. First thing I do is very gently file a lead on the edge of the block to avoid damaging the seal on the way IN. I also completely smear rubber grease on the seals, and lay a gentle/ small bead of sealant in the bottom corner of the block recess.
    Gently and squarely press the bearing cap down, after the cap has started to go in, then a soft face hammer can be used. Don't be worried about the seal stretching as it goes in, the use of rubber grease will prevent it from binding and tearing.

    After the cap is seated, then trim off the excess poking out with a razor blade.

    The sump is sealed using a good bead of Wurth 250 or similar.

    DO NOT fit the rear main seal carrier with the gasket (if it is supplied), use the same sealant as for the sump job, and do not overtighten the bolts.


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 3rd November 2010, 09:29 AM #7
    Scouse's Avatar
    Scouse
    Scouse is offline OldBushie Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,347
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The guys here used to put the bearing caps in the freezer for an hour or so before refitting them. That might help as they can be rather a tight fit.
    Scott
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
« Dimming instrument panel lights | cherie-cherie squeak sound front left wheel »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!