Talk to us after you have fitted a new oil filter, although I have found Ryco to have better non return valves than OEM.
Regards Philip A
Recently our 3.9 V8 failed at 160k due to a blocked oil pick up. It was blocked with bits of silicone sealant and chunks of old gasket material...a lesson for all in checking the oil pick up which is vulnerable and prone to easy blockage!!
Anyhow, a brand new 4.0 L engine and new oil pump (already fitted to a reco'd front cover) was purchased and all installed very carefully!!
Problem: the new engine when cold takes up to 20 secs before the oil light goes off!! Once off it stays off and goes off immediately when re-started soon after.
Suggestions so far from engine/oil pump supplier include replace the sender - done, no change; check pick up gasket - done, no change; replace Ryco filter (said to be rubbish?) with an OE one - next job to do! Fit oil pressure gauge to see if pressure is building too slowly - next to do.
Also have replaced oil cooler hoses - no change. Lifters are not rattling, and like the cam, are all new. Engine supplier advised that unless lifters were rattling, then the engine is getting oil. Others have said that if the lifters rattle, then the engine is probably toasted
Question: Has anyone experienced something like this before and have any suggestions as to the cause of the delay in the oil light going off and/or any fixes or other checks to make?
Talk to us after you have fitted a new oil filter, although I have found Ryco to have better non return valves than OEM.
Regards Philip A
What oil are you using?,is it the right grade?.My Tdi did a similar thing so I removed the rocker cover and started it and oil squirted up within seconds so I replaced the pressure switch and all was good. Pat
oil grade is as recommended in the manual. I've already replaced the sender unit and no change to the start up issue.
The Ryco brand filter I used says it is made in the USA - so it should be OK unlike the early Chinese made Ryco's which were a nighmare from all reports...but it could be draining or syphoning back into the sump (like the Nissan 4.2 turbo diesels do), thereby slowing oil pressure build up while the filter fills...
I guess I'll find out tonight after I change it.
Thanks for the advice so far.
how did you go Eric....I can supply a good motor for you, comes with a 93 2 door attached
seriously tho, did the filter make any difference![]()
hum, Mark yes well at least we know the old girl's engine is tough. God knows how many time we saw sparks out the back!!
New filter has made a big difference on cold starts. Swapping from Ryco to Coopers (OE I believe) has reduced the time taken for the oil light to go off on cold starts from up to 20 seconds to less than 5.
I'm still not sure if that's OK as by comparison I checked:-
Suzuki Swift - less than 2 secs
Holden Commodore x 3 - less than 2 secs, 2 on cranking (VN and VT)!
MF Perkins 6L diesel = less than 2 secs (not started for days)
Nissan X Trail = less than 1 sec
Nissan Patrol 4L petrol - oil pressure gauge responds immediately on cranking
So, is less than 5 seconds OK for the Rover for a cold start?
Seems there is a considerable difference between the Coopers and Ryco filter. Maybe the Ryco one (US made) is faulty as I have used them before and not had such issues.
I'm still going to fit a OP gauge.
5 seconds is still a long time without oil pressure.
If the oil filter made such a difference, I'd suggest the oil supply is completely draining. Makes me think it could be the non-return valve. Stuck ball or something. Pump is obviously making good pressure if light doesn't flicker on at idle.
I would have a look at the pressure relief valve. I note you said the front cover was reconditioned, so maybe have a look at the valve and check there is not junk in it, and that both the bore and the piston are unmarked.
Regards Philip A
Thanks
the valve was tested by the supplier, but yes the problem could be there given the front cover is refurbished. Indeed, I suspected the same and requested the supplier to pay for the front cover to be removed and the valve and pump clearances checked by an experienced mechanic...so far silence from them on that front but hopefully they will stand by their products and service
I've not looked yet, but I guess removal of the pressure relief valve would require removal of the front cover??
If you have a camshaft driven pump, ie a 3.9 cover then the pressure relief valve is behind a large brass plug on the side of the oil pump and easily accessible. Just undo the plug and the spring will be behind it and the plunger should come out with the spring.I've not looked yet, but I guess removal of the pressure relief valve would require removal of the front cover??
Regards Philip A
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