Thread: Bloody electrics ...

So am I off to the sparky tomorrow then, or might I have missed something?

If you don't have a multi meter go to dick smith, jaycar or ebay and get a cheapie. They start at about $10. Then you can check that there is voltage at the fuse, whether or not power is going through the fuse, or power is at the socket. Fuses can fail sometimes without showing a clear break, so can globes. A resistance check of these items will show up any problems. It can save you many $$$ of professional charges.

Thanks mate ... good suggestion. I have no experience with doing a Multi check, and without a 110 manual of any kind not sure exactly where the fuse is at or how to check it.

Can you give me a run down of how to proceed with the unit?

Best, Simon.

OK basic volts checking: Turn on meter (always a good idea) connect the black lead to a clean earth point, such as a bolt/screw head in a metal area, set meter to read 20 volt DC range. Use the red lead to probe what you want to check is on, so switch your lights on and see which fuses get voltage when you do so. Check both ends of the fuse and see if same volts appears on each side. If all pans out well go to the lamp socket and probe contacts inside, black lead must be earthed as before, can be to battery earth, or a screw head into a metal area. Always test it on the car battery first so you know about what voltage to expect.

Resistance checking: set to read 200 ohms range and connect across any component that is removed fron the car. You want to get close to zero ohms for a fuse, a few ohms for a globe.

And if all else fails read any instructions that come with the meter or do a search on multi meter use on google perhaps.

The fuses are in the cab, behind the gearshift. Each side of the vehicle is fused separately.
There is no guarantee that the new globe is ok.
WD40 would not be my pick for electricals when you want to promote connectivity- I choose CRC 2-26.
Yes, when clearing an engine of moisture then out with the 40, but it has a oily touch to it. CRC 5-56 is similar.
The other one, the 2-26 in a blue/white can still leaves a residue but electrics like it.
To clean terminals and contacts off with no residue use CO contact cleaner.

Good luck,
Rovers4

G'day Rover,

I actually did a check with the same bulb that was working on the passenger side, on the driver side ... so it is not the bulb but something else. One thing I did notice on inspection is that the black earth plunger backed by the spring in the socket, sits further forward than the passenger side part. Could it be that the plastic socket itself has an issue? I don't see how/why it would matter but I was visually looking for any differences to see if that was the problem.

Simon.

Problem solved ... gah!

So I located the fuse box, thanks to Rovers suggestion. I then went through every fuse, pulled them, checked, replaced ... switched on lights to see which fuses affected which lights. Then I see that there is a missing fuse at the very bottom of the tree .... switch the other fuse into that space and voila! Let there be light!

What I don't understand however is this ...

Before I replaced the globe on the pass side ... the driver side light was working. Now when I replaced the pass side globe it worked but the driver side was blown. How is that now, the one fuse switched to the alternate position is making the driver side globe work and not the passenger side when before the fuse was in the alternate position?!!!

This is why they call it electrickery! Anybody got a sound explanation for this anomaly? All I need do now is trundle down to repco and get a replacement fuse ... GREAT!

Simon.

Hi Simon,

If you are ever down Sydney way I will be happy to give you a 5 minute run down on basic electrical fault finding. 90% of problems are not rocket science and just a bit of logic. All you need is a basic meter which. This will give you confidence, especially if you are out in the bush.

Erich