Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: want to wire in a second cigeret lighter plug

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Qld
    Posts
    806
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Milhouse View Post
    This sounds exactly like what I want to do. Please excuse my ignorance but what is the best way to wire the junction box as described above? Photo or link would be great!
    Millhouse, if you live near a good electronics shop or auto supply shop (somewhere like Jaycar is good) have a look for some terminal block strip, same stuff as is used in electrical wiring and lights in houses. Looks something like this, comes in various sizes and also in ceramic if you want heavy duty. You can cut one strip and use half each for + and -.



    If you want something a bit nicer looking, use one of these

    They are pretty but a bit more expensive. You will need one strip/block for +12v and one for -12v so colour code them black and red accordingly. If you go with the simple plastic terminal strip, cut a long piece in half and this gives you enough to do your + and - rail. You put your battery wire (use good heavy gauge wire though, and 12v rated, not household wiring as it won't last. The type used for large spotlights or similar would be good, not sure what gauge this would be off hand, I pick wire based on the size of it, you want about 5mm diameter of copper in the cable) into one side of the first clip on the strip and then use some heavy copper wire (even a coat hanger wire works but copper is better) and make wire U shaped "jumpers" (like this UUUU) to join all the seperate terminals inside the block together, so any one has voltage. Do this up one side, then tighten the screws, this should leave you with the opposite side free to screw in all your outputs. Do the same with the second block for -12v and you are done. Mount this in a plastic project box to keep it waterproof if you like, but put it somehwere you can get to it easilly. It is best to fuse each thing coming out, that way you can wire up a small device with a small fuse and larger fuses for bigger devices. Use decent crimps to hook it up to the battery. If you don't have the gear lying around, measure the lengths of wire you need and ask an auto electrician to fit a terminal on each end for the battery and the block. Most places, including Jaycar, will sell the wire by the metre.

    Sorry but I have not yet done this to my Landy so I have no pix of one done up yet, but hopefully you het the idea. Plastic strips are a couple of dollars each, the gold fancy blocks with only 4 outputs are about $13, so weigh up time versus cost and pick the one thats best for you. Always go the gold fancy ones if you are putting this under the bonnet or anywhere visible, they look better and last longer, but nothing beats having 10 power outputs hidden under the dash.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide - Torrens Park
    Posts
    7,291
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I shifted the difflock light in my RRC and installed a twin outlet in that spot, which mirrors the original outlet (other side of radio). For a power supply I tapped into the fused side of the power window circuit. This gives acc. power protected by a 20 amp fuse.

  3. #13
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bellarine Peninsula, Brackistan
    Posts
    5,502
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi 350RRC, if I were you, while the 8G cable is fine but I’d replace the 50 amp fuse with a 30 amp auto resetting circuit breaker. This will give you both short circuit protection as well overload protection.

    8G or 8B&S cable ( 7.9mm2 ) has a maximum continuos load rating of 65 amps and a 50 amp fuse is actually designed to carry 135% of its marked rating for around 30 minutes. Thats 67.5 amp, and high amps for shorter periods.

    Those rates are just to much to be safe and even if you run a few things at the same time, it highly unlikely that you will continually pull 30 amps.

    I would also fit at least 15 amp but 20 amp fuses would be the best protection for each power socket. 20 amp fuses will still blow if there is a short circuit and while 10 amp fuses will blow a split second quicker, they will run hot and could melt if you use any appliance that pulls 8 to 10 amps.
    Thanks.

    I'm trying to minimise voltage drop and was under the impression circuit breakers used a tiny bit of power?

    The only individual thing that will be plugged in that might pull 10 amps is a small inverter, but I'll have to check the spec sheet.

    Primus fridge pulls a max of 5amps according to their helpline and 10 amp inline fuse is recommended for that circuit.

    cheers, DL
    Last edited by 350RRC; 2nd December 2010 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Christmas is coming

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    7,904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi 350RRC, fuses and circuit breakers add about the same resistance to a circuit so there is no advantage for one over the other on that basis.

    I personally prefer fuses over circuit breakers but in dual battery set ups and in power supply sets like yours, only auto resetting circuit breakers give both short circuit protection and overload protection.

    Most other circuits don’t need overload protection if they are set up properly and what your doing, will give you proper protection, just watch your wire/cable sizes.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Goolwa SA - but top ender forever
    Posts
    2,515
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi 350RRC
    fuses and C/Breakers are not supposed to add any resistance to a circuit as they are a control (safety) not part of the load.

    If you used a meter on ohms to test it they would both be the same which it say that close to nothing the average meter wouldn't pick it up.

    so you can rest assured that you wont have any problems with a correctly sized C/B or fuse (my personal prefrence in a a situation where you cant always know what the load is going to be is an auto resetting C/B )
    Last edited by blitz; 3rd December 2010 at 11:07 AM. Reason: mental fingers

  6. #16
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bellarine Peninsula, Brackistan
    Posts
    5,502
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Blitz.

    The 50 amp fuse is going right next to the battery and is really there so I don't have an unfused large long live cable going right through the vehicle (in case of big bingle).

    Probably going to run power and earth up the A pillar and inside the headlining. Outlets and respective fuses mounted above the spare in the back.

    Don't have enough stuff to overload the circuit, even all plugged in at the same time.

    cheers, DL

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!