Thread: County track rods and seals - **PICS**

Another way to check the panhard rod bushes is to rock the steering wheel just like you do to check the tierod ends, if there is movement it means either your panhard bushes are flogged out, the bolts retaining the arm are worn or the hole in the brackets has worn and is now elongated

As Frank said you can get hold of a tierod end puller to remove the the track rod and drag link, but all i do is get a big hammer and hit the steering nuckle where the tierod ends bolt through (once the nuts are backed off) and 9 times out of 10 they will eventually pop out. some time you have to get pretty serious with the swinging of the hammer

CHEERS TIM.

Originally Posted by long stroke

Another way to check the panhard rod bushes is to rock the steering wheel just like you do to check the tierod ends, if there is movement it means either your panhard bushes are flogged out, the bolts retaining the arm are worn or the hole in the brackets has worn and is now elongated

As Frank said you can get hold of a tierod end puller to remove the the track rod and drag link, but all i do is get a big hammer and hit the steering nuckle where the tierod ends bolt through (once the nuts are backed off) and 9 times out of 10 they will eventually pop out. some time you have to get pretty serious with the swinging of the hammer

CHEERS TIM.

Just to elaborat a bit, I remove the castellated nuts & put a normal one on before belting it. Those castellated nuts deform too easily. Some carefully heat applied will help too.

I try not to belt the nuts at all. By bashing the eye where the tierod tapper slips into, you loosen the tapper from the eye. I try and use a big hammer up against the back of the eye and hit it from the other side so the energy is taken up in the eye instead of bending the whole arm that contains the eye.

Originally Posted by slug_burner

I try not to belt the nuts at all. By bashing the eye where the tierod tapper slips into, you loosen the tapper from the eye. I try and use a big hammer up against the back of the eye and hit it from the other side so the energy is taken up in the eye instead of bending the whole arm that contains the eye.

For the cost of $25 you can use a tie rod puller, takes 10 secs. to put on, a couple of turns with a spanner and its off (in my case I use the rattle gun), I have a habit of hitting nothing that I'm aiming at and hitting (with great force) something very expensive or something that bleeds, get a tie rod puller, you'll love it, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by DeeJay

Just to elaborat a bit, I remove the castellated nuts & put a normal one on before belting it. Those castellated nuts deform too easily. Some carefully heat applied will help too.

Jesus

You need not hit the threaded part at all!

Ok everybody, the CORRECT way to release a taper, which is on the end of the rod end, is to hit the OUTER of the taper, which deforms the taper and releases it, I prefer to use a mash hammer as a dolly held on one side, then sharp belts to the opposite side, you'll see little flat bits cast in which just so happen to be the perfect place to bash

Oh, I tie rod seperator is very useful, although will generally wreck the rubber boots, also, should still use the hammers with the seperator, otherwise its to much pressure on the seperator alone, its just there to apply pressure whilst, the sharp belts work the bestest