Thread: County track rods and seals - **PICS**

Ok fella's ...

I posted on the Death Wobble thread a few days back and reported that I experienced this in isolation running the truck over one bit of uneven highway. The event happened in the exact same place, twice, but never happened anywhere else.

I am not a mechanic and I have little experience but I am capable of tinkering on most things. I took a few pics of my track rods and seals and would like your opinions about whether they are knackered based on what you see. I get the impression a couple of the boots are split and ready for replacement - which is why I have had that death wobble.

The truck has been 100% ok in every other instance but the second event was violent and not fun. Let me know based on the visual what you think.

Thanks, Simon.

Originally Posted by Tikirocker

I'll need detailed instructions ... have no experience with checking swivel preload - none. How do I check swivel preload and the pan hard bushes - what do I do and what am I looking for?

Cheers, Simon.

You need a few tools and a mate, first a long strong screwdriver or tyre iron and get under and try to move the panhard rod bushes on each end of that long bar in front of the diff, if the rubber bushes are split or deformed and you can easily move the ends of the panhard bar around, then they need replacing, as the manual says "remove and relace worn parts and reinstall. You could also get a mate to rock and roll your vehicle sideways at the front and observe the bushes.
My advice is go to your local Tool/Parts place and spend about $25 on a Kingchrome tie rod/ ball joint puller, not the tuning fork type that needs to belted with a hammer, but a proper tie rod end puller. Drop the 2 back tie rod ends and the front one on the passenger side, jack the vehicle up and remove both front wheels, put stands under chassis or diff housing. Now sit on a milk crate (whatever) opposite the front hub, you are able to rotate the hub and disc assembly forward and back (as in steering). The preload is the amount of force requires to turn the hub back and forward.
Different models have different setups so I will describe mine, you have to remove the bolts holding the toplate/swivel pin to the top of the swivel ball housing, usually one of the bolts which goes through the disc brake hose bracket is very awkward to get at, persevere. Under this plate are a number of metal shims which raises or lowers the height of the top plate and swivel pin. Removing shims will increase the amount of force (preload) required to rotate the hub. If your hub flops around like my old fella you need to remove some shims to increase preload. You are supposed to use a scale attached to the steering arm on the hub to get the desired preload. I just remove shims till I get a noticeable tension when I turn the hub.
When you have done that renew and replace all of your tie rod ends, put your wheels on and test drive, would also suggest that you purchase a Genuine Land Rover Workshop Manual, hope this helps, Regards Frank.